Maturing red bordeaux

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Continuing our British Airways tasting notes theme, I took the following notes last October on their collection of maturing red bordeaux. The image (visible on the home page) is one of the hundreds of distinctly superior bottle shots on Berry Bros' website. The wines are listed in the order tasted.

Ch Yon-Figeac 2005 St-Émilion

Deep crimson with hardly any evolution. Sweet and rich on the nose. Lots of pleasure and spice with a very slightly odd camphor note. Fades a bit fast. 
Drink
2011
2020
16.5

Ch Batailley 2004 Pauillac

Very deep crimson. Rather odd wood note. Then well behaved, suave fruit at first with the pretty astringent tannins emerging only at the end.
Drink
2013
2020
16

Ch Cantenac Brown 2004 Margaux

A slightly grey look to this. Sweet and a bit simple. Very light and readable and early maturing.
Drink
2010
2016
16

Ch Canon 2004 St-Émilion

Healthy crimson. Nicely melded on the nose. Lovely freshness and delicacy. Dry finish. Really nice classic claret though not a BIG wine. 
Drink
2011
2022
17.5

Ch Labégorce Zédé 2004 Margaux

Very dark crimson. Nicely silky nose – really Margaux. Silky texture, maybe not the freshest acidity but good round fruit and nicely precise. Not very powerful but very well balanced.
Drink
2011
2019
16.5

Ch Lagrange 2004 St-Julien

Dark and brooding. Still a bit of oak on the nose. Very backward. Rugged tannins and pretty austere fruit at the moment. To be kept for a long time, very dry!
Drink
2014
2024
16.5 +

Ch Lynch-Moussas 2004 Pauillac

Mid depth of crimson. Slightly harsh nose but easy and fresh. Some energy here but not much finesse. Pretty rustic tannins on the finish. 
Drink
2012
2019
15.5

Ch Petit Village 2004 Pomerol

Smudgy crimson. Fruity and a bit simple. Sweet and easy and a wine that would be easy to appreciate at the cool temperature that is habitual on a plane. But objectively not a great wine.
Drink
2010
2019
16.5

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2004 Pessac-Léognan

Dark and glossy. Correct and quite intense. Soft and smooth – much softer tannins than most 2004s. Beautifully managed! Bravo! You could drink this young but it will probably last well too.
Drink
2011
2022
17.5

Ch Canon 2003 St-Émilion

Mild ruby.  Light, fully developed nose.  Juicy sweet fruit.  Much more forward than most six-year-old such wines would be, with a good core of juicy fruit.   Serve this one soon! 
Drink
2009
2014
16.5

Ch Giscours 2002 Margaux

Dark glowing crimson. Sweet, easy and glossy with a hint of leafiness. A nice package for early drinking. Just a little chew on the end but relatively light tannins.
Drink
2009
2014
16

Ch La Lagune 2002 Haut-Médoc

Bright crimson. Lightly charred, smoky note. Pretty lightweight. This wine is not going to go anywhere.
Drink
2007
2011
15.5

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2002 Pessac-Léognan

Very dark for a 2002. Scented. Sweet start and definitely not BIG but well judged even if in a minor key. Some slight spritz. Not persistent.  
Drink
2009
2014
16.5

Ch Cantemerle 2001 Haut-Médoc

With quite a bit of evolution at the rim. Really quite a lot of ripeness. Attractively soft and easy. Good dry charcoal-biscuit finish makes it appetising. Nice wine.
Drink
2009
2015
16.5

Ch Canon 2001 St-Émilion

Dark ruby with considerable evolution at the rim. Lightly funky nose, round, mellow fruit.  Very easy to like the soft juicy fruit now but there is some density.  
Drink
2010
2020
16.5

Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2001 Pauillac

Rather pale ruby. Vibrant fruit. Very correct though in lesser vintage mode. Still some dry tannins on the finish. Not big but well balanced. Quite long.
Drink
2010
2020
17

Ch Gruaud Larose 2001 St-Julien

Dark and rich on the nose. A little funky on the nose but lovely, absolutely lovely polish on the palate. Smart stuff. Should be delicious over quite a long period.
Drink
2008
2020
17.5

Ch Lagrange 2001 St-Julien

Dark crimson and very lively and meaty on the nose. Very nice balance and neatness. A real charmer. Should be good in the air because the tannins are very well melded.
Drink
2008
2018
17

Ch du Tertre 2000 St-Émilion

Lively ruby. Something a little bit reminiscent of charcoal on the nose. Sweet and simple and easy. Good for early drinking with some vivacity, but no great weight.
Drink
2008
2011
16

Ch Lynch-Bages 1998 Pauillac

Big and beefy and still very young and even quite raw. Still quite chewy. By no means the most delicious wine here even if it is the most recognisable and valuable! A bit jagged in terms of acidity. 
Drink
2010
2020
16.5