Mr Dom Pérignon's life in bottles

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Every one of Richard Geoffroy's babies sampled. See also Two men we will miss.

I had the great honour and pleasure last month of co-hosting with Nick Baker of The Finest Bubble a retrospective tasting of all the Dom Pérignons made by Richard Geoffroy, who is retiring to make sake in Japan. There were 16 whites, including seven late-released P2s and one P3, and seven glorious rosés, including three P2s – 23 luxurious champagnes in all, in very different stages of evolution – as signalled by the famous Ps for Plénitude.

Fortunately for us all, Richard’s first...