My favourite Greek wines

Well didn't the Greeks do well? Nick is still muttering that they didn't play good enough soccer to be worthy winners of Euro 2004 but I am absolutely thrilled that they won – partly because I am congenitally in favour of underdogs (viz my enthusiasm for Riesling) and partly because we had three great days and nights in Athens last week so I was quite swept up with enthusiasm for this exciting and hugely distinctive country.

During those days, and at an earlier extensive tasting in London of wines from a distinctly assorted group of producers, I managed to...