Next generation California

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See California Wine Summit – a guide.

Our one and only sortie into the vineyards during the California Wine Summit was here in the Russian River Valley at Gallo's MacMurray Ranch (pictured left), our tasting room surrounded by glorious and ancient trees. From our viewpoint on the top of the ridge, a short drive from the ranch, we could see the Russian River Valley to the south:

Russian_River_Valley_lg

and the broader, warmer Alexander Valley to the north:


Alexander_Valley

This selection was intended to give us a glimpse of the work of the current, younger generation (most but not all are the winemakers) of well-established family businesses, such as Karl Wente, or young producers who have recently started out, such as Jamie Kutch, whose wines I had been lucky enough to taste in London earlier this year and whom Alder mentions in The new name in cool for California Pinot Noir. An inspiring tasting was followed by a lunch made from the most flavoursome local ingredients we enjoyed during the entire week.

Wines are listed in the order tasted.

Gallo, Signature Series Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley

Presented by Gina Gallo. A blend of a variety of clones, including 96, 15 and 131, handpicked from the Laguna Ranch and Del Rio vineyards. The grapes were gently whole‐cluster pressed, with press cuts taken by taste to maximise the flavour of each particular block or clone. The grapes were then cold settled, racked off heavy lees and fermented in barrel. This Chardonnay underwent malolactic fermentation and sur lie ageing to give it a rich, creamy mouthfeel. The wine was aged for 12 months in predominantly new French and American oak, with the balance aged in one- to two-year old barrels. pH 3.5, TA 5.7 g/l.
Delicate, refined and still direct. Creamy, with notes of green apple. Very good line and length with a savoury, saline edge adding complexity. The oak is evident and just right for the weight of fruit. Very well done in a difficult vintage. (JH) 14.1%
Drink
2013
2018
$30-35
17

Wente, Nth Degree Chardonnay 2010 Livermore Valley

Presented by Karl Wante. From old Wente and new Wente clones of Chardonnay on the Karl Wente and Herman Wente vineyard blocks that were farmed to The Nth Degree. Hand harvested into half-ton bins in the early morning. Barrel fermented for 11 months in a combination of French, Eastern European and neutral oak barrels. 100% malolactic fermentation also took place in the barrel. The wine was aged sur lie in the same barrels with weekly lees stirring.
Presented by Karl Wante. Creamy and not overly oaky, the generosity of texture balanced by the fresh acidity. Persistent. (JH) 13.6%
Drink
2013
2017
$30-35
16.5

Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2010 Napa Valley

Presented by Violet Grgich. Vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, from American Canyon and Carneros vineyards in the southern tip of Napa Valley, near San Pablo Bay. No malo. Fermented and aged 10 months in French oak, 40% new. pH 3.41, TA 6.8 g/l.
Some spice on the nose, creamy texture but tightly wound thanks to the acidity (and no malo). The oak adds a subtle savoury character. Zesty orange pith and lovely freshness, as well as hidden power (without aggression). Long. (JH) 14.1%
Drink
2013
2020
$30-35
17

Ironstone, Obsession Symphony 2012 California

Presented by Joan Kautz. The Kautz family have the most significant plantings of this variety, in Lodi and the Sierra Foothills and this is their best-selling wine. Symphony was bred at UC Davis in 1948 by Dr Harold Olmo by crossing Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris. Just dry (RS 1.7 g/l), pH 3.32.
Fresh and grapey, delicate and finely balanced. Aromatic but not OTT. Surprising to find that this is one of the latest varieties to be harvested – after the reds. (JH) 12%
Drink
2013
2014
$10
16.5

Kutch, McDougall Ranch Pinot Noir 2011 Sonoma Coast

Presented by Jamie Kutch. Vineyards just 2.5 miles from the sea and at 900 ft, giving high luminosity and high levels of photosynthesis. Dijon clone 114 planted in 1998. Shallow soils, very little water if any. Kutch suggest that with irrigation it is very hard to get ripe stems, which are essential when he does 80% whole cluster. Foot trodden, ambient yeast, malo in barrel. Aged sur lie for 10 months in French oak, 50% new.
Sutble, sweetish red fruit but not that extreme California sweetness that I used to find was a giveaway for CA Pinot Noir in blind tastings. Finely scented on the mid palate and the tannins are fine-grained but still give a definite grip at the moment. The finish is attractively dry and leaning towards savoury. (JH) 13.6%
Drink
2013
2017
$59
17

Bien Nacido Estate Pinot Noir 2011 Santa Maria Valley

Presented by Nicholas Miller. The Millers mostly sell the grapes (and have lots of wonderful detail about the vineyard, clones, soils etc on their website) but they produced 350 cases of this wine. Vines planted 1973. Bien Nacido is the vineyard most often designated on the label. Ambient yeast. Aged 16 months in French oak, 50% new.
Subtle and not particularly expressive on the nose. A touch of oak spice, more savoury than fruity at this stage when the oak is still evident. Refined tannins and fresh acidity provide a well-balanced framework. Not a flamboyant wine and I imagine it would be better at the table. (JH) 13.2%
Drink
2013
2019
16.5

Chanin, Los Alamos Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 Santa Barbara County

Presented by Gavin Chanin, whose first vintage was 2007. This Pinot Noir comes from two sections of Los Alamos Vineyard, clone 777 and 115. Leased vineyard and bought-in grapes. The grapes were handpicked on 4 September and crushed into an open top tank. Started fermentation after a 5-day cold soak and pressed 10 days later when the wine was dry. Punched down twice a day by hand. Aged in French barrels (20% new) for 11 months and bottled unfiltered.
Fresh, elegant cherry fruit and and deliciously dry, savoury tannins to balance the fruit. Subtle and yet wonderfully persistent and a refreshing stemmy finish. (JH) 12.7%
Drink
2013
2018
$50
17

Lost and Found Pinot Noir 2011 Russian River Valley

Presented by Geoff Kruth MS. 176 c/s made from a small estate vineyard west of Forestville. No new oak. Minimalist tech sheet says not a great deal more, other than 'tastes great'.
Kruth's second vintage and made in partnership with Farmhouse Inn and restaurant (Healdsburg), where Kruth is the wine director. Tastes a little stemmy but apparently there were no stems in the ferment. Light and gentle, fresh and juicy but is a bit insubstantial in the middle. (JH) 12.6%
Drink
2013
2016
16.5

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 2011 Russian River Valley

Dan Kosta makes 11 different Pinots! This one has just 5% whole cluster. 16 months in French oak (c 60% new).
Light cherry aroma. On the palate, dry, savoury and intense with great freshness. No unwanted sweetness, very burgundian in a richer mode. Deft and firm, some oak flavour and power showing on the long savoury finish. (JH) 14.5%
Drink
2013
2021
17.5

Lange Twins, Caricature Red Blend 2010 California

Presented by fifth-generation Melissa Lange. Winemaker Karen Birmingham. Lange Twins is writ very small on the label, with the emphasis on Caricature as the brand. Although the fruit is estate-grown in Lange, they have labelled it as California not Lodi 'for marketing reasons'. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% 104-year-old dry-farmed bushvine Zinfandel. The Zin aged in US oak.
The flavour is Cabernet dominated, giving finesse to the tannins. Not a great deal of flesh but not austere either. Dry, structured and subtle but still approachable. VGV (JH) 14.2%
Drink
2013
2018
$14.99
16.5

Viader 2010 Napa Valley

Presented by Janet Viader. Estate fruit from Howell Mountain. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc.
Very ripe fruit, verging on raisined (unless the bottle was not the freshest). Firm, grainy tannins, long and rich. Tastes very ripe and sun-kissed given that it was a relatively cool vintage – perhaps due to the orientation of the vines down the hill so that they get a lot of afternoon sun. (JH) 14.2%
Drink
2013
2020
16.5

J Lohr, Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Paso Robles

Presented by Lawrence Lohr. 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Syrah. Hot days but ocean-cooled nights and the coolest vintage in a decade. Fermented in open-top and steel tanks. 18 months in French oak, 60% new. pH 3.64, TA 6.4 g/l.
Pure Cabernet nose then riper and more grainy on the palate than I expected. Ripe but not overly sweet. Dense, firm and long but more classically Cabernet on the nose than on the palate. (JH) 14.5%
Drink
2014
2020
16.5

Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Oakville

Presented by Suzanne Groth. Includes 12% Merlot from Yountville. Cabernet from the 28-acre Reserve Block, night harvested. Double sorted. Five days' cold soak. Aged 22 months in 100% new French oak with the Cabernet lots blended half-way through barrel ageing.
Lovely freshness, bright and juicy, lots of pure Cabernet character, just a little leafy. Long, firm and dense while remaining very fresh. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2014
2020
16.5

Lancaster Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Alexander Valley

Presented by Jesse Katz. 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc planted on volcanic hillside slopes at the southern tip of the Alexander Valley. Heat spike in August required many passes through the vineyard to eliminate damaged fruit. Ambient yeast and malo in barrel. 19 months in French oak, 70% new.
Attractively leafy nose and just a touch leafy on the palate too, increasing the freshness. Tannins are still quite chewy and there's plenty of spice on the finish but the freshness and length are impressive. (JH)
14.5%
Drink
2013
2020
16.5 +