Sex from Michigan

As I said in your turn not too long ago, I took part in a particularly esoteric tasting recently – of wines that are rarely seen outside their native American state. This selection of Michigan's best bottles had been shipped to London, thanks to enthusiasm on the part of my wine writing colleague Tom Stevenson. The 28 wines included an audaciously-named fizz, a really very pretty Pinot Noir made by Madonna's father and, the biggest surprise of all, a very creditable Solera Cream 'sherry-style' wine made from Niagara grapes from the native American labrusca vine family.

In general the wines...