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  • Jancis Robinson
Written by
  • Jancis Robinson
3 Dec 2015

Published in English on 10 November 2012







最终,大多数的葡萄还是被采收下来,尽管比起往常晚了许多。唯一例外的是那些让人期待(可能落空)用于酿造高品质甜酒的葡萄。一些酒庄已经宣称完全跳过这个年份,不进行葡萄酒的酿造。由财大气粗的荷兰人Eric Heerema出资的酒庄Nyetimber,已宣布不生产Nyetimber 2012,让欣欣向荣的英国葡萄酒行业颇为惊愕。梅多克中级酒庄Hourtin-Ducasse的庄主也作出了相同的决定,并表示猖獗的霉菌是罪魁祸首。



Americans can brace themselves for a return to robust pricing of California wine. The glut there is well and truly over and all West Coast vignerons, in Oregon and Washington as well as in the dominant wine state California, report the best quality harvest they can remember, with decent quantity too. But this is truly a global exception.

In the southern hemisphere where grapes were picked more than six months ago there is also a shortage of volume. Crop levels were down 22% for the biggest southern hemisphere producer Argentina thanks to frost, and rain at flowering time. Chile, which has been planting vineyards faster than any other country on earth, saw the results of this in an increase in wine production in 2012, but not by enough to compensate for Argentina's shortfall. And an exceptionally hot, very dry summer caused many berries to shrivel and may result in wines that will be difficult to marry with the nation's aim of making increasingly subtle, appetising wines (a phenomenon that is currently observable in just about every wine producing country).

The South Africans, for example, are thrilled with their 2012s because not only was the crop 7% higher than the previous year, and almost a record in terms of volume, but grapes reached full and generally rather glorious phenolic ripeness quite early, without having to wait for very high sugars that would have resulted in high alcohol levels.

Some Australians, on the other hand, suffered their own annus horribilis with rain blighting wine production throughout New South Wales although quality was good in the much more important wine state of South Australia. Australia and New Zealand have both had their own glut of wine in recent years but the 2012 crop seems to have brought supply and demand, as in the rest of the world, into much improved balance.