When five cheeses met five wines

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For the back story of how Tam fell upon this restaurant, see When Tam met Harry and Meghan

Together with Alexandre Guarneri, cheesemonger and director at Androuet, and The Other Naughty Piglet’s head chef Joe Knowlden (ex Clove Club), Margaux Aubry Sharratt had organised a five-course cheese and wine matching dinner. So just 55 hours after the lunch described here we were walking up the Godzilla staircase again, as before, with no idea what we were in for.

Margaux doesn’t come over to your table. She swoops in. She throws her head back when she laughs – often. She...