Austria – some current releases and new finds

For many years the annual Austrian tasting organised by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) played to a packed house in its habitual and slightly old-fashioned setting of the Institute of Directors in London’s Pall Mall. Sharp elbows were needed to get close enough to talk to producers and taste their wines. There was absolutely no chance of finding space to perch a laptop for note-taking.

In its current incarnation, every...