The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | 🎁 20% off annual memberships

Australia – current affairs of wine (2001)

• 2 min read
James and Suzanne Halliday in the 1980s

1 July 2021 Now this is a really deep dip into the archive! But in view of today's Australian tasting article, we thought it might be fun to look back at the very first article we ever published about Australian wine. The picture is of James and Suzanne Halliday soon after founding Coldstream Hills winery in the late 1980s. Compare the size of those glasses.

11 February 2001 After the difficulties of the 2000 harvest with unusually wet weather in some regions, 2001 is so far looking warm, dry and very early. Grapes are ripening well ahead of the appearance of distracting redgum blossom, so vines are having to be netted and there is talk of a national shortage of netting!

There is, believe it or not, a shortage of Chardonnay in Australia. Seems all those new plantings were directed by the much reported (not least by me) swing to red wine but consumers have not abandoned Chardonnay so easily and bottlers are desperately looking for more Chardonnay grapes. Expect to see more SemChard blends again, plus renewed marketing efforts behind Semillon and SemSauv blends. 

Salinity is the Big Problem that won't go away. Australia has pulled up so much vegetation that the water table has been rising and with it dangerously high levels of salt in the irrigation water which can make vine leaves burn and completely upsets the ripening process. 

Hot (or, rather, cool) new wine regions include Orange and Canberra District in New South Wales; Beechworth and Heathcote in Victoria; Mount Benson, Robe and Wrattonbully in South Australia; Frankland and Pemberton/Manjimup in Western Australia. 

BRL Hardy has overtaken the more moribund Southcorp as market leader (so Southcorp have taken over Rosemount, shareholders reportedly clamouring for more specialist wine management at the top). Their policy is to build wineries close to vineyards and encourage individualism, which seems to be more successful than the bureaucratic monolith that is Southcorp (Penfolds, Lindemans, Seppelts etc) which has made some strange decisions about marketing its recent acquisitions Coldstream Hills of Yarra Valley (being sold at bizarrely low prices), Devils Lair in WA (low key to say the least) and James Herrick in the Languedoc (no more of those delicious red wines). With most producers other than Southcorp, regionality is the buzzword for wines increasingly made to express a place rather than a marketing concept. 

Look out for a strange dichotomy between the Australian wines that Australians like and revere and those that Parker has written up most enthusiastically, which tend to have extremely exaggerated alcohols and everything else. Importer Dan Phillips of the Grateful Palate in southern California has done much to bring such wines to US wine guru Robert Parker's attention, sometimes buying up most of the entire production. Some disquiet has been expressed over the fact that Americans may be encouraged to regard these wines as typical of the best Australia has to offer.

Choose your plan
25th

For the dad who loves wine

Start your membership this Father’s Day with 20% off a full year. Expert reviews, honest writing, no guesswork. Or, gift a membership and save 20%.

Enter code DAD20 at checkout. Offer ends 22 June.

Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 295,311 wine reviews & 16,095 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 295,311 wine reviews & 16,095 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all Here are the questions posed to those striving for those coveted two letters, among them our very own Sam Cole-Johnson...
Wild menu - yellow background
Free for all Carefully cultivated wildness in the Home Counties. And an unmissable wine list. Farm to fish to fork to frying pan...
Chenin Blanxc vineyard in South Africa
Free for all Jancis makes a suggestion. A version of this article is also published by the Financial Times. See also South Africa’s...
female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
Free for all Pauline Vicard asks, can wine still justify its cultural relevance? The answer to this question, rather than economics, may become...

More from JancisRobinson.com

A castle in the Espera vineyards
Tasting articles A tour of this underappreciated and sometimes misrepresented Portuguese wine region. Today, we cover the northern half – Encostas d’Aire...
Azenhas do Mar, Portugal
Inside information The wines of this Portuguese region are emerging from the shadows of their history. Above, Azenhas do Mar in Colares...
Jota Tanaka at Gotemba distillery
Drinks not wine An exploration of the transparency of Japanese whisky – and how that sensibility is influencing whiskey-making back in Scotland. Above...
Glass of rose with food
Tasting articles Rosés for every occasion, from poolside pinks to robust BBQ-ready versions. We at JancisRobinson.com view the world through rose-tinted spectacles...
A bottle of Moreau Naudet Chablis
Wines of the week A reference Chablis, albeit in a riper style, available from $39.95, £31.95 . Prompted by our recent forum discussion about...
Tertius Boshoff of Stellenrust shows off multiple Chenins in London
Tasting articles The many Cape Chenins and Chenin blends shown at a big South African tasting in London in May reviewed. Tertius...
The Pacific ocean view from Flowers Vineyards
Don't quote me Chris Howard asks, if there’s such a thing as volcanic wine, can there be oceanic wine? Above, seals on the...
Beaujolais vineyard harvest imminent
Tasting articles Bien Boire (‘drinking well’) en Beaujolais is more fun than Bordeaux’s primeurs and offers plenty of excellent wines, reports Natasha...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.