Find the 2009
Particularly faithful and attentive visitors may remember that in November 2010, I visited Clos de la Perrière, the most famous but long-overlooked vineyard in Fixin, just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. The article I wrote with detailed background and accompanying video is here. This is clearly a very special vineyard (from which you can see the outskirts of Dijon, so high is it) and the current incumbent Bénigne Joliet is clearly out to prove that his monopole, the walled Clos de la Perrière, may be underestimated at its current premier cru status. The picture shows the caption to the 12th-century wine press in the atmospheric cellars of this historic domaine.
After a few hesitant vintages, he is now gloriously on track and I am delighted to see that in the UK Berry Bros are offering both the 2008 and 2009, while the monopoly in Québec and some German retailers have the 2009, and the 2008 can be found chez certain French cavistes. (Surely some US importer should be on to this new jewel? Or perhaps they are, but outside the ambit of Wine-searcher.com?)
For lovers of burgundy, this is a fine time to explore this highly favoured vineyard since prices are likely to go up for more recent vintages, and both the complex 2008 and much more opulent 2009 both have obvious qualities and appeal. Here are my tasting notes on them:
Dom Joliet Père et Fils, Clos de la Perrière Premier Cru 2008 Fixin 17 Drink 2014-22
Translucent ruby. Fruitier than most 2008s. Lots of ripeness and relative richness though there is a little tough tannin on the end. Should come right and eventually prove to be a stunning bottle.
£36.50 Berry Bros & Rudd
Dom Joliet Père et Fils, Clos de la Perrière Premier Cru 2009 Fixin 17 Drink 2012-2022
Pale ruby. Ruddy appeal and lots of sweetness. Real intensity and richness. With some purity and tension too. Long and satisfying already. Exciting! 13%
£39.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
You can read the story of the evolution of this highly distinctive property here. I don't think burgundy fans will be disappointed. I'd tackle the 2009 before the 2008. Purple Pagers will find a total of eight tasting notes on wines from this atmospheric walled vineyard in our database of more than 70,000 wine reviews, including notes on the whites.
