The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | 🎁 20% off annual memberships

Villa Lanata, Lo Zoccolaio, Suculé 2007 Barbera d’Alba

• 2 min read
Image

From €10.40, £9.99, 53 zlotys and, erm, 1,390 roubles

Find this wine

sucule
There was a time when Piemontese Barbera was just a bit too much of a good thing, too eager to display all the expensive new oak it was aged in, and the elevated alcohol level that late picking or low yields managed to achieve. See for example Piemontese Barberas by the score from July 2004 and Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba from December 2003. But things have calmed down considerably since then and many of the top producers are making beautifully mannered, well-balanced wines from Piemonte's most planted grape, both gently oaked and exuberantly fruity.

This wine is not from one of the famous names of Alba. Indeed, Villa Lanata specialises in growing Moscato and Langhe Chardonnay. But this nicely packaged, well-priced wine really hits the spot. It shows the refreshing acidity of the Barbera grape, but not to the extent of tartness – perhaps partly thanks to its extended bottle age. It also has the attractive sweet edge of ripe Barbera. Here's my tasting note:

Very dark crimson. Lots of fresh, vibrant fruit. Sweet start and pretty polished tannins. Very charming. No excess of oak or alcohol. Well mannered even if not the most dramatic. 14%

It went well with a delicious but quite fatty neck of lamb, surely one of the best-value cuts of meat around, braised with onions and carrots, and, to judge from users' comments on UK retailer Majestic's website, it has been enjoyed with quite a range of other meat dishes too.

And the great thing about this wine for British-based wine buyers is that it is one of a dozen distinctly superior wines that Majestic have chosen as their Wine Relief selection this year. Ten per cent of the retail price, ie a pound, goes straight to Comic Relief's magnificent work in Africa and the UK, for every bottle sold between now and Red Nose Day, 18 March. I will be reporting in detail on this year's vastly improved Wine Relief wines a week on Saturday, 26 February, with full tasting notes published on Purple pages a few days before that.

This is just one of the Wine Relief wines I have recommended with special recipes for Valentine's Day. For details see here.

Although Majestic is the only UK stockist, this wine is widely available in Germany, where, according to wine-searcher.com, the retail price varies from 10.40 to 14.30 euros a bottle. It's also available in Belgium and Poland in this sort of price range, but the Russian price of 1,390 roubles caught my eye. The price from online retailer Wine.butik.ru is the equivalent of £29.45 a bottle, three times the UK price! Evidence indeed of the price gouging for which the Russian market has become famous. It resonated with me as I have just finished reading the evocative first novel Snowdrops by A D Miller of The Economist. He was the magazine's Moscow bureau chief between 2004 and 2007 and paints a thoroughly convincing picture of post-oligarch Russia, where prices are determined more by chutzpah and craft than anything as boring as cost or value.

One more thing, this wine shows Italian naming anarchy at its best. So many Italian wine producers seem to think that one name is not enough for a wine.

Find this wine

Choose your plan
25th

For the dad who loves wine

Start your membership this Father’s Day with 20% off a full year. Expert reviews, honest writing, no guesswork. Or, gift a membership and save 20%.

Enter code DAD20 at checkout. Offer ends 22 June.

Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 295,383 wine reviews & 16,097 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 295,383 wine reviews & 16,097 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Wines of the week

A bottle of Moreau Naudet Chablis
Wines of the week A reference Chablis, albeit in a riper style, available from $39.95, £31.95 . Prompted by our recent forum discussion about...
Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier bottle and glass of wine outdoors, on table with books
Wines of the week A summer-ready, silky white wine that’s widely available from just $8.99, £20.90 . The sleeper hit of Napa winery Pine...
Niepoort rabbit illustration
Wines of the week A traditional, versatile and inexpensive white port that is both dry and sweet – and doesn’t take itself too seriously...
Quinta do Vesuvio aerial view
Wines of the week A gorgeously fragrant, dry Portuguese red from an iconic producer. And it’s widely available for as little as €13.65, £21.57...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Hugo, Rui, Francisco and Ricardo of Cas’amaro
Tasting articles A tour of the southern half of this Portuguese wine region. See part 1 for producers and wines from the...
Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Don't quote me Nick Martin reflects as another en primeur campaign winds up. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (pictured above) bundled a visit to the property...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all Here are the questions posed to those striving for those coveted two letters, among them our very own Sam Cole-Johnson...
A castle in the Espera vineyards
Tasting articles A tour of this underappreciated and sometimes misrepresented Portuguese wine region. Today, we cover the northern half – Encostas d’Aire...
Azenhas do Mar, Portugal
Inside information The wines of this Portuguese region are emerging from the shadows of their history. Above, Azenhas do Mar in Colares...
Wild menu - yellow background
Free for all Carefully cultivated wildness in the Home Counties. And an unmissable wine list. Farm to fish to fork to frying pan...
Jota Tanaka at Gotemba distillery
Drinks not wine An exploration of the transparency of Japanese whisky – and how that sensibility is influencing whiskey-making back in Scotland. Above...
Chenin Blanxc vineyard in South Africa
Free for all Jancis makes a suggestion. A version of this article is also published by the Financial Times. See also South Africa’s...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.