All in la familia

Esfuerzo release party

Arnica Rowan meets a powerful Mexican force in the Santa Ynez Valley in California's Central Coast. Seen here with friends at a release party for Esfuerzo wine are Fidencio Flores (far left) and his father Lupe (centre).

Every Sunday, Fidencio Flores and his grandfather Armando Zepeda drive a pickup truck over to the Longhorn coffee shop on Sagunto Street in Santa Ynez, a few hours north-west of Los Angeles, California. Armando orders a creamy cup of hot chocolate in a speckled ceramic mug, Fidencio nurses his cup of black coffee, and they talk. The grandson relays his crews' activities of...