Ch Lafite is renovating its cellars and chais for only the fifth time in its history. This follows dramatic renovation at Ch Latour since François Pinault took over the property from British hands in 1993 and a top-to-bottom re-design at Ch Margaux when the Mentzelopoulos family took it over from the Ginestets in time for the 1978 vintage. The cellars at Ch Haut-Brion were renewed in the 1980s. As someone who had the enormous pleasure of participating in a tasting of Chx Latour and Pétrus this week, I can testify to the beneficial effects of the renovations on Latour quality...