Mandrolisai part 1 – clinging to ancient DNA

Emanuela Flore of Bentu Luna

Walter takes us into the heart of Sardinia to witness the rebirth of this very traditional appellation and profile three of its leading lights: Bentu Luna, Fradiles and I Garagisti di Sorgono. Pictured above, Emanuela Flore of Bentu Luna. Come back tomorrow for part 2, a review of wines from other local producers.

Deep in central Sardinia on a high plateau amid a largely unspoilt and wild environment the monumental, centenarian vines of the tiny DOC of Mandrolisai are facing a double whammy: extirpation and falling foul of the law. ‘The ancient vineyards in Mandrolisai are increasingly low-density due...