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  • Jancis Robinson
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  • Jancis Robinson
18 Mar 2013
 


As I explained in English fizz, exotic grapes find favour in Melbourne, I recently co-presented a couple of wine tastings as part of this year's Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. Below are my necessarily sketchy (since I was mainly having to talk rather than write) notes on the wines shown under the heading Great Wines of the World.

Melbournians did seem rather more thrilled by the exotic grape tasting on which I will be reporting than on the likes of Chambertin and Sassicaia, which probably reflects just how much great wine is in circulation in this gastronomically minded city.

Max Allen moderated the tasting and made us consider what makes a wine great. James Halliday volunteered 'line and length'. I suggested longevity. To be great, I think most wines need to demonstrate that they are capable of changing for the better in bottle - with the sole exceptions perhaps of Condrieu, which I think can be awfully good when young, and bottlings of ancient fortified wines which are ready to drink when bottled.

I was surprised that no one really called the line-up into question. Why no Bordeaux? Well, I seem to remember that Ch Latour might have been on the orginal list, until someone calculated what it would do to the ticket price. We could have had an overperforming classed growth of lower status, but perhaps it would too obviously have been not at the top of its particular tree.

It seemed from the buzz that particular favourites in the room were the Pur Sang from Dagueneau, the J J Prüm, the Chambertin, the sherry, and all the Australians of course. Note those prices. The Tyrrells Semillon and Jesús Barquín's sherry were the bargains.

WHITE

  • Didier Dagueneau, Pur Sang 2010 Pouilly-Fumé

    Very pure, intense and steely. Such intensity! This admirably spreads across the palate but is actually very tight on the finish. Still chewy and youthful with the aroma of blackcurrant leaves. Every Pouilly and Sancerre producer should try this. 12.5%
    Drink 2015- 2020
    Aus$210
    17.5
  • Dom François Raveneau, Les Clos 2009 Chablis Grand Cru

    Mealy and not as crisp as some vintages. Mind you, it suffered from having to follow Dagueneau's Pur Sang 2010. Broad and alcoholic. Wait for a bit of puppy fat to go? 13%
    Drink 2016- 2024
    Aus$250
    17
  • Tyrrell's, Vat 1 Semillon 2006 Hunter Valley

    Lovely development aromatically even if the nose is very slightly cheesy. Funnily enough, I tasted this just before leaving London a few days ago. See here. 10.5%
    Drink 2013- 2030
    Aus$60
    17.5+
  • Trimbach, Clos Ste Hune Riesling 2005 Alsace

    Quite deep greenish gold. Low-key nose. Slightly oily even. Lots of extract. Perhaps this wine is at that awkward entre-deux-ages stage? Definitely food wine. It developed in the glass but was not as exciting as bottles previously tasted. 12.5%
    Drink 2018- 2030
    Aus$250
    17+
  • J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Goldkapsel Riesling Auslese 2010 Mosel

    Dances out of the glass on the nose. Such delicacy and life! Racy. Masses of acid and so much potential. Glorious vitality. No excess sulphur – Katharina Prüm really seems to be reducing the apparent sulphur in these young wines.
    Drink 2015- 2040
    Aus$170
    19

RED


FORTIFIED