Red-hot classification of Barolo crus

See our collection of tasting notes on fine Italian wines grown outside Piemonte to be published tomorrow.

Barolo, the region where Nebbiolo arguably finds its greatest expression, is about to be shaken to its foundations. In his just-released e-book Barolo 2001-2008 Assagi e Classificazione, Alessandro Masnaghetti (pictured) proposes a radical classification based on the recent official listing of the region's vineyards.

This official listing, the so-called Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntivi Ufficiali, has taken years to agree on and is no more than a list; it doesn't actually classify the vineyards. However, it is in itself hugely controversial, as the decision...