Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting

Competition – Mari Foster

• 2 min read
Image

Mari Foster is a lawyer and lives in Tokyo, Japan. She writes, ‘When not reading contracts, I read technical sheets on any wine I am drinking or hope to drink. Although my father and I mainly visit wineries in Japan, I have included a photo from when we visited Bordeaux and stopped by all the places he remembered.’ Here is her unedited entry in our seminal wine competition

When I was in my final year of high school, sometime ago, my parents took a trip to Bordeaux and returned with several bottles of wine. My father was particularly excited about one bottle from Pomerol. I don’t remember what the bottle was, but some sleuthing through family albums suggests that it may have been from Chateau L’Eglise Clinet. What I do remember is my father rattling on about how the wine tasted like pepper and how the flavor came from the soil. I also remember making a joke about how I only drink wines with hints of sweaty leather shoes mixed with a sea breeze on the first day of summer. Given that I was a teenager and thought that taking multiple shots of tequila in a short span of time was cool, my joke was probably even more annoying.

But my father, always persistent, opened the bottle for dinner one night. For those wondering, we lived in Brussels for my father’s work and where the drinking age was 16 years-old. I was legal. So, I took a sip.

It started from the front of my tongue, moved along the sides and the back and then there it was! I tasted pepper, black pepper. It was not strong like when you accidentally inhale while your waiter grates fresh black peppercorns over your salad or steak. It was more like this tingle on the side of my tongue that played peek-a-boo with other fruit flavors. But it was there.

I exclaimed, “I taste the pepper!” My father beamed.

That Pomerol showed me that wine is a different kind of beverage. It is made from grapes but doesn't taste like grapes. And, in the case of that Pomerol, the winemaker didn't grate pepper into his barrels or add some artificial flavoring to make it taste like pepper. Instead, the soil or the winemaker’s skill or both brought out that flavor from the grapes. It struck me as magical, Disney Land in a bottle.

That Pomerol also showed me how interesting wine can be. Before that sip, drinking wine was not new to my family in any way. We had always drunk wine. But that Pomerol introduced an awe, an enthusiasm that was new and it was infectious.

Decades later now, my father and I continue to carry that enthusiasm: We visit wineries together; we go to tastings together; and we email each other almost daily about what wines we are drinking. Whenever we discover a wine that excites us I think about that peppery Pomerol and am grateful for what it showed me. 

Choose your plan
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 294,992 wine reviews & 16,085 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 294,992 wine reviews & 16,085 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 294,992 wine reviews & 16,085 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 294,992 wine reviews & 16,085 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
Free for all Pauline Vicard asks, can wine still justify its cultural relevance? The answer to this question, rather than economics, may become...
Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale
Free for all Jancis is put in her place, by the hybrid grapes of the Emerald Isle. A shorter version of this article...
Ungrafted monastrell vines in Jumilla
Free for all 4 June 2026 In advance of the 2026 Old Vine Conference on 8 June, we’re republishing this overview of our...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all Alors que notre Sam Cole-Johnson et 216 autres candidats s'apprêtent à passer les examens MW la semaine prochaine, nous revenons...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Beaujolais vineyard harvest imminent
Tasting articles Bien Boire (‘drinking well’) en Beaujolais is more fun than Bordeaux’s primeurs and offers plenty of excellent wines, reports Natasha...
Alessandro Campatelli of Riecine
Tasting articles Pleasant surprises from a torrid year. Above, Alessandro Campatelli, director and oenologist (and now owner) at Riecine, made a 2022...
Japanese Wine by Nick Rowan - book cover
Book reviews Nick Rowan’s new book is an amazingly complete guide to the wine (and cheese!) of Japan, for amateurs and professionals...
Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork...
Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier bottle and glass of wine outdoors, on table with books
Wines of the week A summer-ready, silky white wine that’s widely available from just $8.99, £20.90 . The sleeper hit of Napa winery Pine...
Split Rail vineyard
Tasting articles Part 4 of an exploration of California’s westernmost vineyards. Above, the Split Rail vineyard in Corralitos (credit: John Benedetti)...
Fernando Mora MW and Mario López of Bodegas Frontonio
Tasting articles A close look at three of Zaragoza’s most important projects. Above, Fernando Mora MW (left) and Mario López of Bodegas...
Acered vineyard
Tasting articles To celebrate Aragón’s new map in the upcoming World Atlas of Wine , Ferran explores the wines of Zaragoza. Above...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.