Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Competition – Mari Foster

Tuesday 21 August 2018 • 2 min read
Image

Mari Foster is a lawyer and lives in Tokyo, Japan. She writes, ‘When not reading contracts, I read technical sheets on any wine I am drinking or hope to drink. Although my father and I mainly visit wineries in Japan, I have included a photo from when we visited Bordeaux and stopped by all the places he remembered.’ Here is her unedited entry in our seminal wine competition

When I was in my final year of high school, sometime ago, my parents took a trip to Bordeaux and returned with several bottles of wine. My father was particularly excited about one bottle from Pomerol. I don’t remember what the bottle was, but some sleuthing through family albums suggests that it may have been from Chateau L’Eglise Clinet. What I do remember is my father rattling on about how the wine tasted like pepper and how the flavor came from the soil. I also remember making a joke about how I only drink wines with hints of sweaty leather shoes mixed with a sea breeze on the first day of summer. Given that I was a teenager and thought that taking multiple shots of tequila in a short span of time was cool, my joke was probably even more annoying.

But my father, always persistent, opened the bottle for dinner one night. For those wondering, we lived in Brussels for my father’s work and where the drinking age was 16 years-old. I was legal. So, I took a sip.

It started from the front of my tongue, moved along the sides and the back and then there it was! I tasted pepper, black pepper. It was not strong like when you accidentally inhale while your waiter grates fresh black peppercorns over your salad or steak. It was more like this tingle on the side of my tongue that played peek-a-boo with other fruit flavors. But it was there.

I exclaimed, “I taste the pepper!” My father beamed.

That Pomerol showed me that wine is a different kind of beverage. It is made from grapes but doesn't taste like grapes. And, in the case of that Pomerol, the winemaker didn't grate pepper into his barrels or add some artificial flavoring to make it taste like pepper. Instead, the soil or the winemaker’s skill or both brought out that flavor from the grapes. It struck me as magical, Disney Land in a bottle.

That Pomerol also showed me how interesting wine can be. Before that sip, drinking wine was not new to my family in any way. We had always drunk wine. But that Pomerol introduced an awe, an enthusiasm that was new and it was infectious.

Decades later now, my father and I continue to carry that enthusiasm: We visit wineries together; we go to tastings together; and we email each other almost daily about what wines we are drinking. Whenever we discover a wine that excites us I think about that peppery Pomerol and am grateful for what it showed me. 

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all Everything we’ve published on this challenging vintage. Find all our published wine reviews here. Above, the town of Meursault in...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all Information about UK merchants offering 2024 burgundy en primeur. Above, a pair of ‘brouettes’ for burning prunings, seen in the...
cacao in the wild
Free for all De-alcoholised wine is a poor substitute for the real thing. But there are one or two palatable alternatives. A version...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Francesco Intorcia
Inside information Perpetuo, Ambrato, Altogrado – these ancient styles offer Marsala a way to reclaim its identity as one of Sicily’s vinous...
La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
São Vicente Madeira vineyards
Tasting articles Wines from this extraordinary Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic, varying from five to 155 years old. The...
The Chase vineyard of Ministry of Clouds
Wines of the week A perfectly ordinary extraordinary wine. From €19.60, £28.33, $19.99 (direct from the US importer, K&L Wines). A few months ago...
flowering Pinot Meunier vine
Tasting articles Once a bit player, Pinot Meunier is increasingly taking a starring role in English wines. Above, a Pinot Meunier vine...
Opus prep at 67
Tasting articles Quite a vertical! In London in November 2025, presented by Opus’s long-standing winemaker. Opus One is the wine world’s seminal...
Doug Tunnell, owner of Brick House Vineyard credit Cheryl Juetten
Tasting articles Save water, drink these wines from the Deep Roots Coalition, a group of producers who eschew irrigation. Among them is...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.