The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | wine writing competition | 🎁 20% off annual memberships

The making of a wine region

• 4 min read
Image

Steve Harrop, author of The Three Harrops – an update, sent this report last week on the 2010 vintage in the fledging wine region of Waitaki in New Zealand. Interesting to follow the far-from-steady progress of such a marginal spot.

The 2010 vintage has been a mysterious and unpredictable one with the most nervous budburst and kick off we have ever seen in the Waitaki. The buds burst across most sites as normal in October but very low temperatures and frosts across the various vineyards saw marginal damage in the sloping sites and little damage in those sites with fans or water protection.

Exposed vineyards had to resort to expensive helicopters and those without the facilities were quite badly burned. This frost period was followed by an unseasonably cool October and November, which resulted in very slow growth in both established and newly planted vines.

Vineyards that had reduced shoot numbers or pruned to single or shorter canes saw the vines moving a little better but on the whole growers were extremely nervous about the canopies going into December flowering. To add insult to injury, the local pest we call the bronze beetle flew in biblical proportions, giving the fragile new shoots another setback. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger!

Flowering started in the second week of December but stalled due to the cool conditions. It was clear and dry, but there were some very cold snaps that left the vines confused about flowering and as a result some vineyards saw patchy and uneven fruit set. The exception this year seems to be the Hakateramea vineyard site, where the elevation and protection from the cooler conditions saw an excellent even set across the clones and varieties in the 12-hectare Pasquale vineyard.

Post flowering saw cool, dry conditions continue through until mid January. The vines finally saw some real Waitaki Valley heat at the end of January, on through February, and into March. The canopies had a fantastic recovery, making up for the growth lost in the early season. Near-perfect growing conditions – warm dry days and cooler but mild nights – have continued up until the present. We are still playing catch up as far as growing degree days go, but growers are optimistic.

It will be touch and go whether a lot of the cooler sites get the fruit over the line, and ripeness will be the defining character in the Waitaki 2010 wines – especially the Pinots. The Hakateramea wines will fly a positive flag as long as they avoid late-season pre-harvest frosts.

All in all the season is still open to the risk of frost but the late-growing canopies are still very much functional under the nets – another four weeks of this Indian summer we are enjoying at the moment and you might see a few smiles on growers' faces. For the moment it's still as chancy as a day at the races!

One real positive was the Royal Easter Show results: the first bag of medals for the region and the region's first winery getting a gold – see press release below.

WAITAKI VALLEY STRIKES GOLD

In a series of firsts two Pinot Noir wines from the new wine region of the Waitaki Valley have scored gold and silver medals in the Royal Easter Show. The 2008 Pasquale Pinot Noir from the Waitaki Valley was awarded gold, while its counterpart just over the river the 2008 Pasquale Hakataramea Pinot Noir took a silver medal. Both Pasquale wines are produced by Kurow Estate which opened the valleys first winery in Kurow just six months ago.

"This award represents a significant step for our region and particularly for our Kurow Winery. It will be greatly celebrated" says owner Antonio Pasquale. "The bar was always set very high for these wines, we control all facets from the grape to the glass and this is proof that expertise and care can produce excellence. Our belief in the unique soils and terroir of our Kurow Estates sites and the Hakateramea Valley vineyard is now being recognised. A first for the Pasquale Label and the Kurow Winery but I am confident that it will be the first of many for these very special wines"

It is appropriate that the first gold medal winning Pinot was made for Pasquale by a Kurow born winemaker, Grant Taylor – "I am as delighted by this award as any I've received" said Grant, "The Waitaki wines are about finesse with length of flavor rather than power, a style which can often be overshadowed in competitions by the more powerful ripe fruited wines. The fact that a Pinot Noir of delicacy with an ethereal nature has received gold medal is a reflection of the quality, sophistication and attention to detail of wine judging in NZ."

Waitaki aromatic whites were also recognised with the 2009 Kurow Village Cricklewood Pinot Gris and 2009 Kurow Village Pinot Gris taking bronze medals at the show.

"The Pasquale and Kurow Village wines are made entirely from estate grapes, and it is the total control on-site, from the vine to the state-of the-art bottling plant, that preserves the integrity and quality of the wine" says Kurow Estate winemaker Andy Nicole." The wines reflect what we can achieve with the Waitaki and Hakateramea fruit and I have no doubt that the 2009 Pasquale Pinots will continue to set the standard by which the valley will be judged."

The winery also produces a dry Pasquale Riesling and a dry Arneis, and a rich, dry white aromatic blend called Alma Mater. Kurow Village Riesling, Pinot Noir and two rosés are also made for earlier drinking. Further Italian varieties are being planted, says Antonio Pasquale, and the winery output is progressively being expanded to some 14,000 cases per year over the next three years. The winery is engaged in the sustainability programme of New Zealand Winegrowers and intends eventually to attain organic status. The company has pioneered authentication of production for each bottle through the use of the New Zealand-developed Oritain Global certification.

All wines are available from the Kurow Winery cellar door on SH83 in the Waitaki Valley between Duntroon and Kurow open 7 days 11am – 5pm , the Pasquale range can be found in just a few of the country's leading wine merchants and finest restaurants.

Wählen Sie Ihre Mitgliedschaft
25th

For the dad who loves wine

Start your membership this Father’s Day with 20% off a full year. Expert reviews, honest writing, no guesswork. Or, gift a membership and save 20%.

Enter code DAD20 at checkout. Offer ends 22 June.

Mitglied
$135
/Jahr
Über 15 % jährlich sparen
Ideal für Weinliebhaber
  • Zugang zu 295,413 Weinbewertungen und 16,097 Artikeln
  • Zugang zu The Oxford Companion to Wine und The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
Inner Circle
$249
/Jahr
 
Ideal für Sammler

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/Jahr
Für Weinprofis (Einzelnutzer)
  • Zugang zu 295,413 Weinbewertungen und 16,097 Artikeln
  • Zugang zu The Oxford Companion to Wine und The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • Frühzeitiger Zugang zu den neuesten Weinbewertungen und Artikeln, 48 Stunden im Voraus
  • Gewerbliche Nutzung von bis zu 25 Weinbewertungen und -punkten für Marketingzwecke
Gewerblich
$399
/Jahr
Für Unternehmen in der Weinbranche

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • Gewerbliche Nutzung von bis zu 250 Weinbewertungen und -punkten für Marketingzwecke
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Bezahlen Sie mit
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Abonnieren Sie unseren Newsletter

Erhalten Sie die neuesten Beiträge von Jancis und ihrem Team führender Weinexperten.

Mit dem Abonnement erklären Sie sich mit unserer Datenschutzerklärung einverstanden und stimmen zu, Updates von unserem Unternehmen zu erhalten.

More Gratis für alle

Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Gratis für alle Here are the questions posed to those striving for those coveted two letters, among them our very own Sam Cole-Johnson...
Wild menu - yellow background
Gratis für alle Carefully cultivated wildness in the Home Counties. And an unmissable wine list. Farm to fish to fork to frying pan...
Chenin Blanxc vineyard in South Africa
Gratis für alle Jancis makes a suggestion. A version of this article is also published by the Financial Times. See also South Africa’s...
female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
Gratis für alle Pauline Vicard asks, can wine still justify its cultural relevance? The answer to this question, rather than economics, may become...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Hugo, Rui, Francisco and Ricardo of Cas’amaro
Verkostungsberichte A tour of the southern half of this Portuguese wine region. See part 1 for producers and wines from the...
Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Unverblümte Meinungen Nick Martin reflects as another en primeur campaign winds up. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (pictured above) bundled a visit to the property...
A castle in the Espera vineyards
Verkostungsberichte A tour of this underappreciated and sometimes misrepresented Portuguese wine region. Today, we cover the northern half – Encostas d’Aire...
Azenhas do Mar, Portugal
Insider-Informationen The wines of this Portuguese region are emerging from the shadows of their history. Above, Azenhas do Mar in Colares...
Jota Tanaka at Gotemba distillery
Getränke außer Wein An exploration of the transparency of Japanese whisky – and how that sensibility is influencing whiskey-making back in Scotland. Above...
Glass of rose with food
Verkostungsberichte Rosés for every occasion, from poolside pinks to robust BBQ-ready versions. We at JancisRobinson.com view the world through rose-tinted spectacles...
A bottle of Moreau Naudet Chablis
Weine der Woche A reference Chablis, albeit in a riper style, available from $39.95, £31.95 . Prompted by our recent forum discussion about...
Tertius Boshoff of Stellenrust shows off multiple Chenins in London
Verkostungsberichte The many Cape Chenins and Chenin blends shown at a big South African tasting in London in May reviewed. Tertius...
Weininspiration wöchentlich direkt in Ihr Postfach
Unser Newsletter erscheint jede Woche und ist für alle gratis
Mit Ihrem Abonnement erkennen Sie unsere Allgemeinen Geschäftsbedingungen an.