The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

The making of a wine region

• 4 min read
Image

Steve Harrop, author of The Three Harrops – an update, sent this report last week on the 2010 vintage in the fledging wine region of Waitaki in New Zealand. Interesting to follow the far-from-steady progress of such a marginal spot.

The 2010 vintage has been a mysterious and unpredictable one with the most nervous budburst and kick off we have ever seen in the Waitaki. The buds burst across most sites as normal in October but very low temperatures and frosts across the various vineyards saw marginal damage in the sloping sites and little damage in those sites with fans or water protection.

Exposed vineyards had to resort to expensive helicopters and those without the facilities were quite badly burned. This frost period was followed by an unseasonably cool October and November, which resulted in very slow growth in both established and newly planted vines.

Vineyards that had reduced shoot numbers or pruned to single or shorter canes saw the vines moving a little better but on the whole growers were extremely nervous about the canopies going into December flowering. To add insult to injury, the local pest we call the bronze beetle flew in biblical proportions, giving the fragile new shoots another setback. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger!

Flowering started in the second week of December but stalled due to the cool conditions. It was clear and dry, but there were some very cold snaps that left the vines confused about flowering and as a result some vineyards saw patchy and uneven fruit set. The exception this year seems to be the Hakateramea vineyard site, where the elevation and protection from the cooler conditions saw an excellent even set across the clones and varieties in the 12-hectare Pasquale vineyard.

Post flowering saw cool, dry conditions continue through until mid January. The vines finally saw some real Waitaki Valley heat at the end of January, on through February, and into March. The canopies had a fantastic recovery, making up for the growth lost in the early season. Near-perfect growing conditions – warm dry days and cooler but mild nights – have continued up until the present. We are still playing catch up as far as growing degree days go, but growers are optimistic.

It will be touch and go whether a lot of the cooler sites get the fruit over the line, and ripeness will be the defining character in the Waitaki 2010 wines – especially the Pinots. The Hakateramea wines will fly a positive flag as long as they avoid late-season pre-harvest frosts.

All in all the season is still open to the risk of frost but the late-growing canopies are still very much functional under the nets – another four weeks of this Indian summer we are enjoying at the moment and you might see a few smiles on growers' faces. For the moment it's still as chancy as a day at the races!

One real positive was the Royal Easter Show results: the first bag of medals for the region and the region's first winery getting a gold – see press release below.

WAITAKI VALLEY STRIKES GOLD

In a series of firsts two Pinot Noir wines from the new wine region of the Waitaki Valley have scored gold and silver medals in the Royal Easter Show. The 2008 Pasquale Pinot Noir from the Waitaki Valley was awarded gold, while its counterpart just over the river the 2008 Pasquale Hakataramea Pinot Noir took a silver medal. Both Pasquale wines are produced by Kurow Estate which opened the valleys first winery in Kurow just six months ago.

"This award represents a significant step for our region and particularly for our Kurow Winery. It will be greatly celebrated" says owner Antonio Pasquale. "The bar was always set very high for these wines, we control all facets from the grape to the glass and this is proof that expertise and care can produce excellence. Our belief in the unique soils and terroir of our Kurow Estates sites and the Hakateramea Valley vineyard is now being recognised. A first for the Pasquale Label and the Kurow Winery but I am confident that it will be the first of many for these very special wines"

It is appropriate that the first gold medal winning Pinot was made for Pasquale by a Kurow born winemaker, Grant Taylor – "I am as delighted by this award as any I've received" said Grant, "The Waitaki wines are about finesse with length of flavor rather than power, a style which can often be overshadowed in competitions by the more powerful ripe fruited wines. The fact that a Pinot Noir of delicacy with an ethereal nature has received gold medal is a reflection of the quality, sophistication and attention to detail of wine judging in NZ."

Waitaki aromatic whites were also recognised with the 2009 Kurow Village Cricklewood Pinot Gris and 2009 Kurow Village Pinot Gris taking bronze medals at the show.

"The Pasquale and Kurow Village wines are made entirely from estate grapes, and it is the total control on-site, from the vine to the state-of the-art bottling plant, that preserves the integrity and quality of the wine" says Kurow Estate winemaker Andy Nicole." The wines reflect what we can achieve with the Waitaki and Hakateramea fruit and I have no doubt that the 2009 Pasquale Pinots will continue to set the standard by which the valley will be judged."

The winery also produces a dry Pasquale Riesling and a dry Arneis, and a rich, dry white aromatic blend called Alma Mater. Kurow Village Riesling, Pinot Noir and two rosés are also made for earlier drinking. Further Italian varieties are being planted, says Antonio Pasquale, and the winery output is progressively being expanded to some 14,000 cases per year over the next three years. The winery is engaged in the sustainability programme of New Zealand Winegrowers and intends eventually to attain organic status. The company has pioneered authentication of production for each bottle through the use of the New Zealand-developed Oritain Global certification.

All wines are available from the Kurow Winery cellar door on SH83 in the Waitaki Valley between Duntroon and Kurow open 7 days 11am – 5pm , the Pasquale range can be found in just a few of the country's leading wine merchants and finest restaurants.

选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 296,928 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,142 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 296,928 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,142 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Sam Neill
Free for all 杰西斯 (Jancis) 回忆她遇到过的最迷人的葡萄酒生产者。上图为尼尔 (Neill) 在他的双桨园 (Two Paddocks)...
A glass of Sauvignon Blanc at an airport bar
Free for all 在第一轮评审之后,我们很高兴开始发布今年写作比赛参赛作品中的最佳作品。所有入选作品均未经编辑发布...
Boscastle harbour
Free for all 非凡的海鲜和完美搭配的魔力在火箭仓库 (The Rocket Store)。上图为博斯卡斯尔港 (Boscastle harbour)。...
Ch Langoa Barton chai in May 2025
Free for all ISVV 的工作成果如何传递到各个酒庄?它又如何影响了葡萄酒?此外,波尔多顶级和底层酒庄的亮点。本文的一个版本发表于金融时报...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Person in Domaine Sérol's vineyards in the Côte Roannaise (credit Le Bon Cliché)
Wines of the week Thirst-slaking freshness in a red from Central France. From £15.50, $26.95. For a variety so maligned for much of the...
CWL Wines of Brazil over map
Book reviews 经典葡萄酒图书馆系列的三本新书,以及一本自行出版的葡萄牙葡萄酒指南。 以下四篇评论中,有三篇是关于葡萄酒学院 (Académie du...
Sadie Family winery exterior
Tasting articles 一场揭示性的垂直品鉴,追溯南非最受追捧白葡萄酒的演变。这些酒款由英国进口商贝瑞兄弟与路德 (Berry Bros & Rudd)...
Léoville Barton - line-up of wines for vertical tasting
Tasting articles 来自一座传奇波尔多酒庄的四分之一世纪佳酿。另请参阅这份 波尔多垂直品鉴指南 。 尽管莱奥维尔巴顿酒庄 (Château Léoville...
Wanton at XO Kitchen
Bite-sized 鲜味爱好者们,向东出发,品尝让人下巴酸痛的美味融合菜肴和本州酸味鸡尾酒 (Honshu sour)。 XO 厨房 (XO Kitchen)...
Harvest at Robert Weil by Peter Quirin.jpg
Tasting articles 这是一个极度平衡的年份,拥有明亮的酸度和近年来记忆中最好的庄园级葡萄酒。此外还有大量优质的雷司令 (Riesling)。上图为罗伯特·威尔...
chickens in the HJW vineyard at Hermann J Wiemer, Seneca Lake
Wines of the week 这款干白葡萄酒奠定了纽约手指湖 (Finger Lakes) 作为美国雷司令 (Riesling) 圣地的地位。而且它只会越来越好。售价...
cheddars, apples and fruity red wine
Inside information 真正的切达配真正的葡萄酒。 通过某种小小的奇迹,我设法找到了那辆四个轮子都能正常运转的购物车。我对购物车任性之神的祈祷得到了回应...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.