Islas Canarias

If rich reds are the keynote of the Balaerics, Spain’s islands in the Mediterranean, fine-boned whites represent the best of the extremely varied produce of its islands in the Atlantic, the Canary Islands. These islands boast no fewer than 10 different DOs, which may smack of an excess of local politicking but, as I say, the wines really are very varied – not just stylistically but qualitatively. One of the best producers is Viñátigo which makes extremely stylish dry whites, including one from the local Marmajuelo grape, as well as a light, sweet but spine-tingling pale Malvasia Clásico. Wines like this must have been made since the Middle Ages when merchant fleets brought the Malvasia grape from the Aegean to these islands and, fatefully, Madeira to the south.