Robert Weil, Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2020 Rheingau

18.5

Can a wine exist on tension alone? If its name is Gräfenberg, then apparently yes. This GG occupies the rare air between the poles of fruit and texture. Crisp white pears, young apricot, lemon peel and a delicate white, nearly almond-blossom floral character. Grip, concentration, power, pedigree. So. Much. Pedigree. Yet despite the obvious power, a blinding clarity carries the wine from intense first to final sip. The renowned site has in 2020 forsaken the sinew and muscle of many vintages for a sleeker, stonier and saltier grip, a nearly burgundian noblesse. Exceptional balance and presence, even in its youth. Hard to find something to criticise, other than that it was opened far too soon. (PS)

Producer
Robert Weil
Cuvée
Kiedricher Gräfenberg
Grape variety
Classification
Grosses Gewächs
Appellation
Rheingau
Region
Country
Colour
White
Alcohol
13%
Score
18.5
When to drink
2024
2040
Published on
5 May 2022
Date tasted
Reviewer