Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | 🎁 25% off annual & gift memberships

Big House and Cardinal Zin go from Bonny Doon to The Wine Group

Tuesday 1 August 2006 • 3 min read
Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon is seeking to return to his roots and concentrate on truly terroir-driven, biodynamic wines by selling his two most successful wine brands, Big House and Cardinal Zin to The Wine Group LLC, the management-owned wine company based in San Francisco. The Wine Group produces the likes of Franzia, Concannon, Glen Ellen, Corbett Canyon, Foxhorn, Fish Eye, Mogen David, Casarsa, and Tribuno.  Founded in 1981 by a management buy-out of the wine assets of The Coca-Cola Bottling Company of New York, The Wine Group currently claims to be the world’s third largest wine producer by volume.
 
We are not told the purchase price but it will presumably give Grahm some time to breathe, dream up a few of the aphorisms which make him so quotable that he has been banned as a source by some wine editors (he makes life just too easy for us journalists….) and do some strategic thinking rather than just chasing his tail trying to keep up with the quantities needed for these highly successful brands.
 
 “I had envisioned a catchy headline like, ‘Big House brand escapes the shackles of the tyranny of terroirism,’ but thought better of it,” commented Grahm.  “We have been joking around for so long, it is hard for people to know when we are in fact serious.”  Le Cigare Volant, his homage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, along with other well-known wines this prototype Rhône Ranger has created over the years will continue to be wholly owned, produced and sold by Bonny Doon.  It is planned that the Pacific Rim brand, mainly Riesling, will relocate its production to the state of Washington and will eventually function as an autonomous entity distinct from that of Bonny Doon Vineyard. 
 
“The rapid growth of [these two brands] in the last several years has stressed our own resources and infrastructure to the max,” stated Grahm.  “This sale allows us to return to our roots, as it were, and re-focus on the production of unique and distinctive, biodynamically produced wines, ones that will truly express a sense of place.  I have been raving on long enough about the transcendental value of terroir; it is now time to translate mere words into deeds. (We are not so much down-sizing, as doon-sizing, creating a company that is more congruent with our deepest values.) That being said, it has been an exhilarating and heady ride to grow the brands as we have done. I greatly appreciate the contributions and efforts of those dedicated souls who have helped build these brands with us.”
 
Fritz Lance, President of Underdog Wine Merchants, commented, “This is a tremendous opportunity to add two truly iconic brands to our international portfolio of fun and distinctive wines.  Big House and Cardinal Zin will be right at home with our emerging brands such as Pinot Evil, Tempra Tantrum, Killer Juice and Herding Cats [at this point I wondered whether this entire thing wasn’t some uberspoof – JR].  We don’t envision making any changes to Mr Grahm’s inspired blends and we hope to build upon his tradition of dynamic and innovative packaging.”
 
Big House, launched in 1990, and Cardinal Zin were among the first super premium California wines to be offered for wide-scale distribution en Stelvin™ screwcap, which began with the 2001 vintage, and has helped to propel the overall acceptance of screwcap closures in the American market.

Paul Tudor, Basket Press, NZ:

Speaking of Pinot Evil and Killer Juice, I note that this story on Randall Grahm's latest (ad)ventures has Last updated "31 July 2006" and Publication date "1 Aug 06". Talk about "uberspoof". This odd conjunction of dates adds an even great air of unreality to the story... And while on Herding Cats, have any Purple Pagers tried the wine? I am REALLY curious (sorry – bad joke.) 
 
me:
 
Now you, on whom the sun rises first, should most easily understand this strange disjunction. I wrote the article at 8am 01 aug, my time here in Sydney, but when it was published, it was still (just) 31 jul back in the UK where the jancisrobinson.com Meisterclock is kept. As for Herding Cats etc, I have not an inkling either.

Mel Knox, San Francisco:

I heard that Killer Juice is what Mel Gibson was drinking when he got pulled over by a Jewish cop in LA.

I have had the Herding Cats wine...I thought it was a bit mousy...


 
Become a member to continue reading

Celebrating 25 years of building the world’s most trusted wine community

In honour of our anniversary, enjoy 25% off all annual and gift memberships for a limited time.

Use code HOLIDAY25 to join our community of wine experts and enthusiasts. Valid through 1 January.

Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 285,213 wine reviews & 15,798 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 285,213 wine reviews & 15,798 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 285,213 wine reviews & 15,798 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 285,213 wine reviews & 15,798 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

JancisRobinson.com team 15 Nov 2025 in London
Free for all Instead of my usual monthly diary, here’s a look back over the last quarter- (and half-) century. Jancis’s diary will...
Skye Gyngell
Free for all Nick pays tribute to two notable forces in British food, curtailed far too early. Skye Gyngell is pictured above. To...
Kistler Chardonnay being poured at The Morris
Free for all Recommendations of very varied wines for very varied budgets, from £11.50 to £60 a bottle. A much shorter version of...
Cornas view © Bernard Favre
Free for all A guide to all our coverage of vintage 2024 in the Rhône Valley. Master of Wine and Rhône expert Alistair...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Mercouri peacock
Tasting articles More than 120 Greek wines tasted in the Peloponnese and in London. This peacock in the grounds of Mercouri estate...
Wine Snobbery book cover
Book reviews A scathing take on the wine industry that reminds us to keep asking questions – about wine, and about everything...
bidding during the 2025 Hospices de Beaune wine auction
Inside information A look back – and forward – at the world’s oldest wine charity auction, from a former bidder. On Sunday...
hen among ripe grapes in the Helichrysum vineyard
Tasting articles The wines Brunello producers are most proud of from the 2021 vintage, assessed. See also Walter’s overview of the vintage...
Haliotide - foggy landscape
Tasting articles Wines for the festive season, pulled from our last month of tastings. Above, fog over the California vineyards of Haliotide...
Leonardo Berti of Poggio di Sotto
Tasting articles Following Walter’s overview of the vintage last Friday, here’s the first instalment of his wine reviews. Above, Leonardo Berti, winemaker...
Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street...
UK newspaper listing including The Wine Programme from 1983
Inside information The fourth of a new seven-part podcast series giving the definitive story of Jancis’s life and career so far. For...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.