As I ploughed through an ocean of often nondescript white burgundy in my 2001 tastings, the wines of this new producer stood out like a flashing beacon, desperate for the attention of anyone who would glance in their direction. This is a delightfully refreshing change from the norm (see my rather sour thoughts on the current state of white burgundy in general), although of course there are thrilling exceptions in every vintage, including 2001.
The Bret Brothers (sic – not Les Frères Bret) are Jean-Guillaume and Jean-Philippe Bret whose vineyards in the Mâconnais used to supply the local coop but have now been taken in hand, yields lowered, selected more rigorously and the result is a range of wonderfully exuberant yet tightly etched wines. The brothers have notched up experience at some top producers in Burgundy, Bordeaux and California and the vines on their steep, east-facing slope are pretty old, which doubtless helps; those which go into this basic bottling are between 21 and 46 years.
This basic cuvée has seen virtually no oak and is designed to be drunk now and over the next two years. But it is way up there with the best of the Mâconnais whites with a nose so dramatically exotic it almost smells as though there is a whiff of botrytis there, and certainly some marzipan. On the palate there is a fruity refreshment reminscent of greengages (reines Claudes) and the whole package is simply dying to charm and give pleasure. What more could you ask for?
There are three more sophisticated and expensive 2001 cuvées as well. The Longeays is tauter and more restrained but already lots of fun. Les Quarts is nutty, rich, soft and beguiling for drinking in the second half of this decade, while Les Quarts Cuvée Millerandée is the Brothers' bid for eternal fame with some tiny berries, extremely high alcohol and some residual sugar. I'm not sure this is as successful as the 2000 version for me, but then I haven't tried it with the recommended poulet de Bresse á la crème accompagné de trompettes de la mort...
In Britain, all four of these wines (and some Quarts 2000) are part of a substantial and worthwhile offer of 2001 red and white burgundy from Morris & Verdin who are offering it at £92 a dozen plus VAT, which works out at £9 a bottle including VAT. Delivery is free within London and Oxford.
In the US, where 'bret' does not have the happiest of connotations, the outfit tends to be known by its alternative name Domaine de la Soufrandière. According to 21/01/03
