Disznókő – an array of Aszú

As well as skimping on our coverage of the Loire, we are probably guilty of giving the great dessert wines of Tokaj less attention than they deserve. This, I confess, may be due to the facts that (a) I have always found descriptions of the production process particularly baffling, with my brain starting to scramble at the mention of puttonyos and (b) I have not visited the region since the late 1980s when I went on a trip to Hungary that included the late Pamela Vandyke Price and her famous travelling medicine chest and culminated in an evening in...