As well as skimping on our coverage of the Loire, we are probably guilty of giving the great dessert wines of Tokaj less attention than they deserve. This, I confess, may be due to the facts that (a) I have always found descriptions of the production process particularly baffling, with my brain starting to scramble at the mention of puttonyos and (b) I have not visited the region since the late 1980s when I went on a trip to Hungary that included the late Pamela Vandyke Price and her famous travelling medicine chest and culminated in an evening in...