If you were to design a grape variety for the Japanese tourism board, you’d be hard-pressed to beat Koshu and its home region of Yamanashi, about 100 km (62 miles) west of Tokyo. It’s a picture-postcard gift: immaculate pergola vineyards hanging with pink-sakura-coloured grapes, and pristine views of Mt Fuji in the distance. The only thing missing is the bullet train – and even that’s arriving in Yamanashi soon.
As...