As wineries have moved closer to the vineyards and vineyards have moved up to cooler sites in the Troodos Mountains on this eastern Mediterranean island, increasing attention has been given to recently rescued local varieties and to making better and better wines from the long-established Xynisteri, the white variety that, along with the dark-skinned Mavro (dominant but less exciting), is one of the two most widely planted on the island.
Most wine production is concentrated in the southern, Greek part...