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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Latest Nick on restaurants

Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants Ballymaloe's charms

An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork, Ireland, to stay the night and to interview the late...

Sally Abé of Teal
Nick on restaurants Abé and Abe, a winning combo at Teal

An exciting new addition to the East London restaurant scene. Above, Sally Abé. Everything is on the small side at Sally Abé’s new restaurant, Teal, a short walk from Hackney...

More Nick on restaurants

Langoustines in the Languedoc
Nick on restaurants Something fishy for a change. This summer I lost my fear of langoustines. I was never actually afraid of ordering...
Auberge de Bardigues on a Monday
Nick on restaurants My picture is of the Auberge de Bardigues in south-west France on a Monday in August. The day before, it...
Lionel Giraud of Narbonn
Nick on restaurants We go posh. The great advantage ‘the masked’ have over ‘the unmasked’ became immediately obvious after we had walked through...
Jancis in buffalo gelateria, Corbieres countryside
Nick on restaurants Where the buffalo roam there is now ice cream of the highest natural order. It is now four years, almost...
Chef Nico plating up at Dom du Meteore restaurant in a crater
Nick on restaurants A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. In the picture above, Chef Nico, the crater plater...
Empty table at Kerridge at the Corinthia, London
Nick on restaurants No-shows and their implications for the future of restaurants. Restaurants have barely reopened – within the UK anyway – and...
Dishoom bacon naan
Nick on restaurants Nick considers the dishes that no restaurant can afford to take off their menus. I can still remember sitting in...
Josh Niland of Saint Peter in Sydney
Nick on restaurants What have some of the world's best chefs been doing during lockdown? A version of this article is published by...
Mange on the Move beef salad
Nick on restaurants Nick writes his first review in nearly four months. The coronavirus has wrought many changes in many households but in...
NHS food parcels being assembled at Annabel's
Nick on restaurants With tongue half in cheek, Nick suggests how the UK hospitality industry might effect a change in government policy. Richard...
Caravan King's Cross, London
Nick on restaurants Nick reflects on the advice he gave on the relative value of shopping and dining, and on the likely future...
Pablo Merchan Montes's vision of the perfect restaurant
Nick on restaurants What needs to change if restaurants are to survive and prosper. While the restaurant industry worldwide faces extraordinary challenges as...
Closed sign in a restaurant
Nick on restaurants As we wine lovers know to our cost, literally, drinks sales are a key contributor to restaurant finances. Nick argues...
Pool noodle hats in Cafe Rothe in Schwerin, Germany
Nick on restaurants A few suggestions from an ex-restaurateur and the father of a restaurateur. Social distancing in action in Germany above. Since...
Ferran Centelles at Granja Elena, Barcelona
Nick on restaurants For the first time, Nick answers the question most frequently put to him. A version of this article is published...
Mazid Diallo, kitchen porter at The Quality Chop House
Nick on restaurants Nick muses on a life without restaurant-going in an article that is also published by the Financial Times. I can...
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