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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter. 

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Latest Nick on restaurants

Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants Ballymaloe's charms

An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork, Ireland, to stay the night and to interview the late...

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Nick Lander • 1 min read
Sally Abé of Teal
Nick on restaurants Abé and Abe, a winning combo at Teal

An exciting new addition to the East London restaurant scene. Above, Sally Abé. Everything is on the small side at Sally Abé’s new restaurant, Teal, a short walk from Hackney...

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Nick Lander • 1 min read
Saveur des Poissons exterior, Tangier
Nick on restaurants A Moroccan bargain for fish lovers
Nick Lander • 1 min read

More Nick on restaurants

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Nick on restaurants
Selling the Costa Brava via the table
I accepted an invitation to join a lunch organised by Jaume Marín, the marketing director of the Costa Brava Tourist...
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Nick on restaurants
Kettner's – a Soho townhouse revived
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. There were three separate occasions when as a restaurateur...
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Nick on restaurants
Lorne – a local restaurant for wine lovers
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. My seat at a table for two at Lorne...
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Nick on restaurants
Three stars on and offline
Today, every restaurant has to have a website. But in the case of the three very different London restaurants I...
Galvin Green Man
Nick on restaurants
Galvin's outpost in Constable country
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. As he approaches his sixtieth birthday, chef Chris Galvin...
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Nick on restaurants
My top 20 London restaurants
This is an article that I write most reluctantly. I hate putting restaurants into lists, whether it is the World’s...
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Nick on restaurants
Chinese in London – good in parts
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Every year I look forward to the Chinese New...
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Nick on restaurants
London's shrinking restaurant scene
The restaurant was busy on a wet Wednesday lunchtime and it has been since it first opened its doors in...
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Nick on restaurants
Posh Indians invade London
It now takes the fingers of both hands to count up the number of smart Indian restaurants that occupy significant...
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Nick on restaurants
A warm pub in the cold north east
The charity Speakers for Schools does precisely what its title would suggest. It was created in 2011 by journalist and...
Tour d'Argent view
Nick on restaurants
A towering Parisian landmark
A shorter version of this article is published by the Financial Times. I can still recall the incident as if...
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Nick on restaurants
France's restaurants – a brighter future?
I just wonder, is France on the turn? I speak in the gastronomic sense, of course, and my rhetorical question...
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Nick on restaurants
Tamping for redemption
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. The scene was fairly typical of that in many...
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Nick on restaurants
Superb fish restaurant in Sydney
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. There were five of us round a corner table...
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Nick on restaurants
Canton in a London church
Perhaps it is to do with the time of year but increasingly I am asked what is my favourite style...
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Nick on restaurants
A year of eating familially
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Other than the sheer pleasure of the good food...
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