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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Wild menu - yellow background
Free for all A walk on the Wild side in Berkhamsted

Carefully cultivated wildness in the Home Counties. And an unmissable wine list. Farm to fish to fork to frying pan … there is a lot of f-ing about in restaurants...

More restaurant reviews

St Pancras
Nick on restaurants Nick finally reports from London! Above, the Victorian monument that is St Pancras as seen by a drone. The Midland...
Maison Sota exterior
Nick on restaurants Nick describes the ideal Saturday morning in Paris, which of course includes a great restaurant discovery. It began with breakfast...
Lourdes and Txomin Rekondo
Nick on restaurants When in this gastronomic capital, wine lovers should head straight to the restaurant run by Txomin Rekondo and his daughter...
Jerez skyline
Nick on restaurants Just three of the places in the Sherry Triangle savoured by Nick this week, not least for their relatively low...
BARE chefs in dining room
Nick on restaurants Nick is knocked out by another Norwegian city. See also Eating out in Oslo. On the advice of friends, we...
Outside Hot Shop
Nick on restaurants Nick and Jancis were given a warm welcome in Oslo this week. Three strong recommendations below. For herring My brother’s...
Pavyllon brigade
Nick on restaurants Three very different combinations of restaurant and hotel considered. Whether you see them as ‘hotel dining rooms’ or ‘restaurants within...
Ana Dias
Nick on restaurants Restaurant rules, and a lamented London closure. As soon as we walked onto the shady terrace of the Grand Café...
Nicolas of Les Inserperables in Paris
Travel tips Current Paris resident Chris Howard takes us by the hand and explains that a directionless stroll is preferable to a...
Cagliari
Nick on restaurants Three restaurants declined as past, present and future by Nick. Atmospheric image of Sardinia's capital courtesy of Jeremy Woodhouse via...
Aponem exterior
Nick on restaurants A vegetable-dominated, all-female enterprise in the hills of the Haut-Languedoc has won great acclaim. Nick went to investigate. Image above...
Avenus outside Le Soleil in Savigny
Nick on restaurants In a follow-on from From Paris to the Med Nick recommends a simple but satisfying restaurant in Burgundy and one...
Henry Harris
Nick on restaurants Long-standing readers of this column may be aware of Nick’s equally long-standing professional admiration for the chef Henry Harris, above...
Sangiacomo at Brolio
Nick on restaurants Hospitality lessons from three Tuscan wineries and three chefs. Above, Franco Sangiacomo, a Tuscan returnee from DC, now at Francesco...
Chef Christophe Hardiquest in the kitchen of La Mère Germaine
Nick on restaurants A trio of restaurants in France – in Paris, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Marseille. Above, chef Christophe Hardiquest of La Mère Germaine...
Sollip's Woongchul Park
Nick on restaurants How two chefs (eventually) pleased their parents. Never underestimate the influence of a properly made baguette. That is the only...
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