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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More restaurant reviews

Enclos exterior in Sonoma
Nick on restaurants A new, Michelin two-star restaurant and, across the square in Sonoma, a much more relaxed establishment. Nick loved both. Enclos...
Tour d'Argent wine list
Free for all Jancis grapples with a five-kilo wine list and tours the cellars that supply it. See also The renovated Tour d’Argent...
Service at Aubergine in Carmel Auberge
Nick on restaurants Nick moves north from LA, on a full stomach. Above, service at Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea, Monterey. The BA flight which...
View west from the Tour d'Argent dining toom
Nick on restaurants A Paris classic, worth it for the views alone, revisited. Why do we go to restaurants? The main reason has...
A wall of The French House resto
Nick on restaurants Nick manages to get a table at The French House, with one of its past casualties. As noon approached, the...
In Vino Veritas, Florence
Nick on restaurants Restaurant recommendations in Florence and the Chianti Classico hills. Above, the friendly wine bar In Vino Veritas. Three nights in...
Kima fish cabinet
Nick on restaurants Special Greek seafood cooking from the Opso team in Marylebone. On every occasion I return to London from a holiday...
Neil Beckett of World of Fine Wine at wine list awards
Nick on restaurants Restaurant sales, and therefore wine list awards, are becoming increasingly important to the world’s wine trade. Neil Beckett is editor...
Claude Bosi, two-star chef
Nick on restaurants Why has a successful two-star London restaurant closed? What does it take to get three stars? And where can Claude...
Labomba trio with the chefs
Nick on restaurants The team behind London’s Trivet restaurant has been invited to open a second establishment, in a Mayfair hotel. Above, left...
Söl'ring Hof hotel on Sylt
Nick on restaurants Another pair of restaurants on Sylt reviewed. Above, the stunning location of the Söl'ring Hof. See also Sylt – wine...
etch restaurant sign
Free for all The final resto on Ben’s whistle-stop tour leads him to England’s south coast and Hove’s thriving food scene. If you...
The Old Pharmacy exterior
Free for all Having navigated his way to England’s south-west, this week finds Ben parked up at one of Bruton’s finest. It was...
Compton Arms exterior
Inside information Ben heads to Islington for a taste of retro-modernism. In the music world, the term ‘ residency’ conjures up images...
Hywell Griffith of Beach House
Free for all With Nick on his hols for a few weeks, Ben takes up the restaurant-reviewing mantle. First stop Wales, for extraordinary...
facts v myths
Free for all Recently, Jancis was asked by the Financial Times to list some of the most common misperceptions about wine. While we...
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