25th anniversary Tokyo tasting | The Jancis Robinson Story

Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Ferran Adria and JR at al kostat
Don't quote me Jancis's diary – February 2026

A short month in London with just one sortie, to Barcelona for 48 hours. Nick took this picture of Jancis and Ferran Adrià of El Bulli. On the first of...

More restaurant reviews

The Sportsman at sunset
Nick on restaurants Nick denies an accusation frequently levelled at restaurant critics. And revisits an old favourite. Those of us who write about...
London Shell Co trio
Nick on restaurants A winning combination in North London beguiles Nick, who seems to have amused the trio behind it. Above, left to...
Vietnamese pho at Med
Nick on restaurants Nick highlights something the Brits lack but the French have in spades – and it’s not French cuisine. This week...
La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Las Teresas with hams
Nick on restaurants Head to the far south of Spain for atmospheric and inexpensive hospitality. Above, the Bar Las Teresas in the old...
Lilibet's raw fish bar
Nick on restaurants What is it about Saturday lunch? A tale of one enjoyed at Mayfair’s latest opening. Very fancy! It has been...
Sylt with beach and Strandkörbe
Nick on restaurants An annual round-up of gastronomic pleasure. Above, the German island of Sylt which provided Nick with an excess of it...
Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of...
Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street...
Skye Gyngell
Free for all Nick pays tribute to two notable forces in British food, curtailed far too early. Skye Gyngell is pictured above. To...
Opus One winery
Nick on restaurants In this second and final look at restaurants’ evolution over the last quarter-century, Nick examines menus and wine lists. See...
Gramercy Tavern exterior
Nick on restaurants During the 25 years of JancisRobinson.com, what’s been happening in hospitality, so important for wine sales and consumption? All pictures...
Grahams 80-yr-old port and jr-wine-news-in-5-min logo
Wine news in 5 Plus a proposal for updated rules in the EU’s wine sector and a catch-up on a new(ish) category for tawny...
Enclos exterior in Sonoma
Nick on restaurants A new, Michelin two-star restaurant and, across the square in Sonoma, a much more relaxed establishment. Nick loved both. Enclos...
Tour d'Argent wine list
Free for all Jancis grapples with a five-kilo wine list and tours the cellars that supply it. See also The renovated Tour d’Argent...
Service at Aubergine in Carmel Auberge
Nick on restaurants Nick moves north from LA, on a full stomach. Above, service at Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea, Monterey. The BA flight which...
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