Robert Weil, Riesling trocken 2020 Rheingau

While there is a tendency to dismiss Gutswein for its 'simple' focus on variety, doing so here would be a mistake. Stony, smoky flowers atop citrus layers of kumquat and lemon, plenty of apple and hints of delicate meadow herbs. The wine tells its story on the palate in a seemingly single breath, a small child so excited to get it all out that they nearly forget to breathe. Racy acidity, wet stone with shimmering highlights of phyllite minerality. Juicy, tangy brilliance, a cutting-edge clarity and mouth-watering zesty finish. Grip, length and yes, the universal Wort des Tages, elegance. Quite a description for a 'basic' estate wine, yet worth every word. (PS)