Beaune – a fond farewell

Chef Mikihiko Sawahata and his wife Sachiko at Bisoh, their restaurant in Beaune

Two old favourites reviewed as we make our way back across the Channel. Above, Sachiko and Mikihiko Sawahata of Bissoh in Beaune.

Customers’ last impression of any restaurant, which comes at the end of any meal as they prepare to leave the premises, is unquestionably the most important.

Whatever it is, it has to convey a great deal. It has to say thank you for your visit; it has to convey the message that the restaurant would like to see you again; and it has to soften the blow inflicted by the fact that you, the customer, have just had...