How has Australian Shiraz evolved?

John Kirk of Clonakilla mulls over their Canberra estate's exceptional Shiraz

Alistair Cooper provides an audit, tasting 52 current examples.

London’s wine trade was treated to a premium Australia tasting in September entitled ‘Australia redefined'.  As there was a plethora of wines to cover on the day, we split the tasting duties, and while Jancis focused on Chardonnay, I tackled Shiraz.

Barossa featured fairly heavily, as one might expect, but Clare, Eden and McLaren Vale were also pretty well represented. All of the 270 or so wines that were on show sell for upwards of £20 retail in the UK. This was an attractive proposition, as I find a certain amount...