Langhe's disappearing bargain

Three generations of Sandrone

Dolcetto from some of Barolo's most coveted producers can still be had for a song, but will it succumb to Nebbiolo mania and the vine disease flavescence dorée?

There is something revealing about tasting the allegedly very modest Dolcetto made by some of the grandest names in Barolo and Barbaresco. Until recently considered only as an obligation to vinify as quickly as possible to make space in the fermentation tanks for Nebbiolo, this so-called daily quaffer is experiencing newfound love, with some delicious wines to prove it. This medium-bodied, refreshing red wine with notes of blackberries, soft tannins and modest...