Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Pauline Vauthier on 2009

Wednesday 12 August 2009 • 3 min read
Image

In view of the photographs we published recently in What hail does to vines, we thought you might be interested in the following interview by Andrew Black, who sends out occasional  Première Presse newsletters from his base in Bordeaux, with Pauline, daughter of Alain Vauthier of the most famous St-Émilion of all, pictured below showing its proximity to those limestone côtes, Ch Ausone.

The extent of the hail damage in May was not easy to assess immediately after the storms, and tending the damaged vines can be a difficult exercise. Pauline Vauthier, whose main responsibilities are the Vauthier family’s vineyards, has been busy adapting the season’s work to the situation…

You got a bit of a scare with those hailstorms back in May. What was the extent of the damage in the end?
The whole of the vineyard owned by the Vauthier family was affected by them. The least affected plots lost 10% of the crop while the worst affected had 80% wiped out.

What about Ausone, in particular?
It wasn’t too bad. The vast majority of the vineyard only had about 10 to 20% damage. Only one plot was badly hit, and there we lost 80%.

Which plot was that?
One at the far end of the village. We’ll only be getting 3 to 5 hectolitres per hectare there, I reckon!

I imagine you’ve had to adjust the way you work the vines after such a setback…
The first thing we noticed after the damage was that the vines went into their shells, so to speak. They were obviously a bit stunned, and this meant the shooting was delayed. The vines just shut down for a couple of weeks; and then, when they did wake up, the vegetation went a bit mad. Shoots and suckers were all over the plant –the vines looked like bushes. So there was massive de-suckering work to do to get rid of the non-fruit bearing shoots.

The next step was the traditional raising of the wires to train the shoots in an upright position, which is usually a relatively easy operation to perform. However, this year we had to be extremely careful not to break the shoots, as many of them had been made brittle or fragile by the impact of hailstones. Even after this training had been completed, some of the shoots slipped down, and we had to go through the vines a second time to re-position them. The end result was that de-leafing was done later than scheduled.

By the time you completed the de-leafing were the vines also behind in their cycle?
No, what delay there was from the hail was quickly caught up. Mid-flowering point was on 3 Jun, which is reasonably early.

How did the flowering go?
Very well, generally. We had lovely weather. However, inexplicably, some areas had coulure. As usual, this was in the Merlot plots, as the Cabernet is much less prone to coulure. So this has affected the crop size, too.

At least, you’ll be economising this year on crop thinning work…
Strange as it may seem, we have also been crop thinning this year –but it has taken only a third of the usual time. It was not so much to reduce volume as to balance out the crop load on vines which had compacted bunches.

ausone2

When do expect to be harvesting?
If we base our calculations on the date of mid-flowering (which is the usual method), we’ll be picking between 20 and 25 Sep. However, we’ll know with greater precision over the next couple of weeks, since I’ve just observed the first berries having changed colour (21 Jul). At this stage, it would appear to be quite a normal year as far as picking dates are concerned.

Depends on the weather in August?
Yes, particularly this year, because up till now, although the weather pattern has been very nice, temperatures have jumped up and down between 15°C and 35°C. It’s been a bit weird. I’d much rather have a regular 25°C!

And what are your predictions for crop size?
Ausone will in fact be about normal. In the other vineyards belonging to the family, we’ll be a bit low, in my opinion. We still have to do the crop thinning there, but with the losses caused by hail, we’re unlikely to get the desired volume.

2008 was a small crop. Will it be a bit larger in ‘09?
No, it will be about the same.

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 287,803 wine reviews & 15,857 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all Everything we’ve published on this challenging vintage. Find all our published wine reviews here. Above, the town of Meursault in...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all Information about UK merchants offering 2024 burgundy en primeur. Above, a pair of ‘brouettes’ for burning prunings, seen in the...
cacao in the wild
Free for all De-alcoholised wine is a poor substitute for the real thing. But there are one or two palatable alternatives. A version...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Francesco Intorcia
Inside information Perpetuo, Ambrato, Altogrado – these ancient styles offer Marsala a way to reclaim its identity as one of Sicily’s vinous...
La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
São Vicente Madeira vineyards
Tasting articles Wines from this extraordinary Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic, varying from five to 155 years old. The...
The Chase vineyard of Ministry of Clouds
Wines of the week A perfectly ordinary extraordinary wine. From €19.60, £28.33, $19.99 (direct from the US importer, K&L Wines). A few months ago...
flowering Pinot Meunier vine
Tasting articles Once a bit player, Pinot Meunier is increasingly taking a starring role in English wines. Above, a Pinot Meunier vine...
Opus prep at 67
Tasting articles Quite a vertical! In London in November 2025, presented by Opus’s long-standing winemaker. Opus One is the wine world’s seminal...
Doug Tunnell, owner of Brick House Vineyard credit Cheryl Juetten
Tasting articles Save water, drink these wines from the Deep Roots Coalition, a group of producers who eschew irrigation. Among them is...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.