In a quest to discover the identity of Austria’s largest and oldest DAC, Julia uncovers a fermenting debate about identity and innovation – as well as some extreme and delicious expressions of terroir.
I went to the annual Austrian tasting in London earlier this year in search of the Thermenregion and the Weinviertel. The former was easier to identity than the latter, and I came away with more questions than answers about the Austrian understanding of quality and typicality.
Austrian wine is on a roll in terms of quality, increasingly diverse styles and exports, but it seems tethered by the...