Susana Esteban's Portuguese old-vine treasures

Esteban and new vineyard

A Spanish winemaker who has made her home in Portugal's cool, elevated Serra de São Mamede confidently demonstrates her wines' ability to age and her aptitude for collaboration.

Susana Esteban grew up in the border town of Tui in Galicia, northern Spain, where there is a bridge that crosses the Minho river. According to Esteban’s importer Raymond Reynolds, who has been working with her since 2015 and organised a tasting of her wines in London earlier this month, Esteban and her brother used to make pocket money by selling sweets to the people queuing in their cars to cross...