2007 may be like 2004 – Ch Margaux

Tomorrow – a very different set of tasting notes, on the best wines of…China.

Owner Corinne Mentzelopoulous and her right hand man Paul Pontallier (now celebrating a quarter century at this remarkably consistent first growth) were at Christie’s in London for a Masterclass last Tuesday night. My overall impression was of not just Margaux’s haunting perfume, but also a remarkable freshness and purity in all the wines, even in the super-lush 1989 as well as the famous pair 1982 and 1983.  

It’s a delightful rich man’s parlour game to compare 1982 and 1983 with Margaux 1983 being...