After having tasted some of the top 2017 Barolos last December, I came to the preliminary conclusion that in spite of the very testing, hot vintage, some good wines have been made. Fast forward to June 2021 and a more patchy picture emerges, that of light fruit, and wines that have developed in a frighteningly fast fashion.
A worryingly high number of wines are already getting tired – evidence of the fact that their constitution...