Bierzo's new village and single-vineyard wines reviewed

Ferran Centelles and the best bottles of his Bierzo wine tasting

A resurgent region's unique geography, expressed in its newly site-specific wines.

My last in-depth visit to Spain’s Bierzo was in 2017. That may not seem like such a long time ago, but the changes that have taken place in this region of León have been more than overwhelming. A review was needed.

These changes are of course building on the considerable changes that began in 1999, the year in which Álvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez arrived here. And let’s not forget Bierzo native Raúl Pérez, now considered one of the best oenologists not only in the...