Bulgaria and Moldova mulled over

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Qualified enthusiasm for wines that deserve more attention

The wines of Bulgaria and Moldova have the ideal cheerleader in the shape of Master of Wine Caroline Gilby, an authority on the region with a book reviewed today by Tam to prove it. She recently presented two masterclasses on these countries, showing a selection of wines from each. 

Selling wine is at least as hard as making it, if not more so – and nowhere is that truer than in a market like the UK, whose shelves runneth over with wine from all around the world, made from every variety and...