Chiaretto, redefining rosé

Lake Garda

Tam falls in love.

It was one of those, 'Where have you been all my life?!' moments. I recently had such a strong reaction to a group of wines that I actually doubted myself. The next day I got those same wines lined up for me, but this time blind, interspersed with some ringers (six rosés from Romania, Italy, France, South Africa and Spain, ranging from £8 to £90 in price). I needed to check that I wasn't imagining what I tasted.

If I talked about Corvina and Rondinella, you'd probably think: Valpolicella, Amarone. If I said Lake Garda, you'd...