Kellers favour Kabinett

Julia Keller in Morstein October 2019

The latest vintage of whites and reds, some brand new wines, and a spotlight on Kabinett, from three generations of the Keller family in Rheinhessen.

There was still some snow on higher ground when I arrived in the little town of Flörsheim-Dalsheim on the last Friday in February. As Klaus Peter Keller drove me to see a new vineyard (location under wraps until they make the first wine), we agreed it was the perfect moment to see which were the cooler sites: those where the snow remained. It had been several inches deep when it fell the day before. By...