Rosé, seriously

Rosana Lisa, Lalomba's head winemaker

The best rosés are not only refreshing while young but also have the capacity to evolve beautifully, finds Tam. Above, winemaker Rosana Lisa, who makes delicious, ageworthy rosé at Lalomba in Rioja.

On 26 June 2023 the American Association of Wine Economists tweeted a graph of wine sales by colour in France from 1988 to 2020. It makes for a startling graphic. Red-wine sales (ergo consumption, one might deduce) have pretty much crashed from a high of 8 million hl (176 million gallons) in 1994 to under 4 million hl in 2020. White-wine sales have remained pretty steady since 1994...