South Africa's best-known wine authority Michael Fridjhon reviews the latest from South Africa's most highly valued wine producer. Above, the Sadie Family team*, Eben second left.
It’s easy to date the year which launched the modern Cape wine industry and separated it from whatever came before. In 1973 the country’s first Wine of Origin legislation was promulgated, together with a regulatory environment which directed (and policed) the vinous equivalent of a trade description act. The new legislation demarcated regional appellations and brought to an end the poetic liberties which producers took when it came to describing the varieties which went...