What a contrast. Arriving by ferry from Santorini to Tinos, we left behind an island that was dramatically landscaped, volcanic, stunningly beautiful in parts and ravaged by tourism in others, with the battle between vineyards and tourist development raging.
Tinos, on the other hand, 170 km (105 m) further north in the Aegean, is hilly but decidedly rural and peaceful, or so it seemed in early May when the...