Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

WWC23 – Benjamin Perus, by Sami-Jo Adelman

Tuesday 29 August 2023 • 1 min read
Benjamin Perus reluctantly agreeing to have his photo taken during our coffee catch up at Nike EHQ in Hilversum

In this entry to our 2023 wine writing competition, wine enthusiast Sami-Jo Adelman writes about her friend and fellow wine lover Benjamin Perus. See our WWC23 guide for more.

Sami-Jo Adelman writes My name is Sami-Jo Adelman and I’m originally from Sydney, Australia but have been residing in the Netherlands for the past six years. I’ve completed my WSET Level 2 and 3 Awards in Wine and in the summer of 2020, I contemplated the idea of becoming a winemaker by spending time in the Jura with Ludwig Bindernagel of Lulu Vigneron and in the Loire Valley with Vincent Barbier of Les Trois Toits. Ultimately, I realised my passion for wine is drinking it and not making it. When I’m not swilling vino and making wine friends at tasting events, you’ll find me working at Nike’s European Headquarters as a digital marketeer, sipping coffee at Five Ways in Amsterdam Oost, dancing Lindy Hop, or travelling somewhere unexpected. 

It’s the middle of July but the weather is grim. A typical Amsterdam drizzle descends as I head out to my first Natural Born Sippers event with a few girlfriends at Rebel Wines, which Carl, the shop owner, hosts every Thursday evening. An excuse not just to taste wine but to pick up new friends. 

Inside is surprisingly warm and cosy as a sizable crowd disperses across the shop floor. There are five wines to taste from the Loire Valley, and I’m eager to get started. As soon as I sample the first drop, I cringe. I know what I’m in for. Too zippy and lean. Definitely not my preferred style. The rest of the wines follow suit. 

In between tastings I snake my way through the crowd towards the bathroom and pass a bloke sitting at the bar drinking solo. He is chatting enthusiastically to Carl, and I immediately detect an Australian accent. A fellow Aussie in the Dam. I stop to introduce myself. 

“I couldn’t help noticing that Australian accent,” I say. “Where are you from?” 

“Melbourne,” he replies. 

“Nice, I’m from Sydney. Do you come to these tastings often?”

“Almost every week,” he says with a broad grin.

“It’s my first time,” I smile back. 

We exchange pleasantries and digits over wine number five.

We finish the last drop, and my friends and I move onto our next destination. But I make a rookie error. My raincoat, an Amsterdam essential, is still at Rebel Wines. 

I text my new mate.

 “Ciao! Sami here. I left my raincoat on the back of the door at Rebel. Can you please tell Carl to hang onto it for me and I’ll collect it from him tomorrow. It’s khaki coloured.” 

“Hey Sami, I'll head back to Rebel shortly to let Carl know re your jacket. Just finishing up a wine @Bar Parry atm. Cheers, Ben.”

WhatsApp contact had officially been established. 

Ben and I tried to connect over the coming months for wine-related activities, yet somehow life got in the way. It wasn’t until November that I heard from him again. I received a message informing me that he had an interview for the company I worked at and needed some advice. I was in Manchester for a training event at the time but was more than happy to help a fellow Aussie and wine enthusiast. 

Fast forward a couple of months; Ben landed the role, and we now work at the same enterprise. 

To celebrate we went out to BAMBINO for a late lunch. After months of exchanging messages and no real drinking action, we were finally getting together for a proper tipple. I was so excited to discuss wine. Would we share affections for the same drinking dens, producers, and grape varieties? Had we travelled to the same wine regions? Did he prefer wine from Bordeaux’s Left Bank or Right Bank? How highly did he regard Barossa Shiraz? I braced myself excitedly for scholarly wine conversation.

As we settled into our meal and the first glass it became quickly evident that Ben and I were on opposite sides of the wine-drinking fence. 

Polar opposite sides. Shit. 

Ben loved natural wine. The funkier the better. I’m more conventional. Give me a Pouilly-Fuissé over a Pét-Nat any day. Ben likes wines that are racy, crisp, and smell like barnyard. I like wines that are bold, round, and smell like butter. Ben talks about wines having a nice kick. I talk about wines with structure and a long finish. Ben likes petillance. I don’t. Ben reads Pipette. I read Noble Rot. Ben found my drinking preferences overly sophisticated. I found his underwhelming. 

How was this ever going to work? 

To my surprise, despite these immense challenges, we continued to hang out, drink wine, and exchange banter. 
“Ben, did Goop tell you that natural wine would clean your chakras?”
“M’lady, is the growth of this claret up to your lofty standards?”
“Oh, this one’s a label-drinker, the more colourful the better. Is this one bright enough for you dear?”

… and so on and so forth. 

Then something unexpected happened. Ben gifted me a bottle of 2018 Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco from Foradori as a thank-you present for the job intel. He said it was one of his favourite producers. Unbeknown to him, it was mine as well. 

After having lived in Italy for a couple of years prior to the Netherlands, Trentino-Alto Adige is one of my beloved wine regions. I first encountered Azienda Agricola Foradori whilst traversing the Strada del Vino from Bolzano to Trento and fell head over heels for Teroldego. I was lucky enough to meet two of the Foradori children, Emilio and Theo, and learned how they cultivate Teroldego and Pinot Grigio on alluvial soils of the Campo Rotaliano, and Nosiola and Manzoni Bianco on the calcareous-clayey hills of Cognola. The Foradori philosophy, inked by their mother Elisabetta, is to produce grapes and wine that express the true essence of the land so that all their wine “keeps an expressive spontaneity and bears the personality of its raw material.” Now this was a philosophy I could get behind. 

+1 Ben. 

Ok, maybe I had judged my companion a little too harshly. This naturalista had potential. 

We continued to go out drinking together, and slowly but surely became more accommodating of each other's preferences. The occasions started to pile up.

First, it was Leroy’s South African wine-tasting party, then the grand opening of Benelux Wine operated by dear friends Malory and AJ, after we had the Radici al Sud festival at Terre Lente and VI.NO.SO. wine fair at Hotel Goudfazant. Friday night aperitivo at Bar Parry was commonplace as well as Friday night final rounds at Twee Prinsen. We even helped my friend Mike select the wine menu for his Mexican restaurant Mas Mais. 

Yes, Ben and I were wine consultants…together. And came to an agreement on the final selection, and no one was injured in the process. It was truly the zenith of our wine mateship. 

Ben earned his title as my number one drinking pal. Now we mingle with the same crowd, and unsurprisingly they all love wine. As more individuals join the clan, I often get asked, “Oh, and how did you two become such fast friends?”

“A lost raincoat, a shared love for wine, and a mutual decision to agree to disagree, until we finally can agree.” 

The photograph is the author's own.

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 288,206 wine reviews & 15,867 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 288,206 wine reviews & 15,867 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 288,206 wine reviews & 15,867 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 288,206 wine reviews & 15,867 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all Everything we’ve published on this challenging vintage. Find all our published wine reviews here. Above, the town of Meursault in...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all Information about UK merchants offering 2024 burgundy en primeur. Above, a pair of ‘brouettes’ for burning prunings, seen in the...
cacao in the wild
Free for all De-alcoholised wine is a poor substitute for the real thing. But there are one or two palatable alternatives. A version...

More from JancisRobinson.com

South Africa fires in the Overberg sent by Malu Lambert and wine-news-5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus an update on France’s ban on copper-containing fungicides for organic viticulture. Above, fire in South Africa’s Overberg, sent by...
A bottle of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc also showing its screwcap top, featuring an alien face
Wines of the week You need to know this guy . From $23.95 or £21 (2023 vintage). Whenever I mention Bonny Doon, the response...
Wild sage in the rocky soils of Cabardès
Tasting articles The keystone of Languedoc viticulture, explored. See also Languedoc whites – looking to the future. ‘Follow me!’ And I do...
the dawn of wine in Normandy
Inside information Turning tides have brought wine back to the edges of north-west France, says Paris-based journalist Chris Howard. This is part...
Nino Barraco
Tasting articles Part 2 of Walter’s in-depth look at the new generation of producers reviving Marsala’s reputation. Above, Nino Barraco, one of...
Francesco Intorcia
Inside information Perpetuo, Ambrato, Altogrado – these ancient styles offer Marsala a way to reclaim its identity as one of Sicily’s vinous...
La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.