Ao Yun vertical


Another aspect of Chinese wine considered after yesterday’s report on a London debut

I celebrated Bonfire Night, 5 November, with liquid fireworks, a vertical tasting of China’s most expensive wine export, LVMH’s Ao Yun. Vertical is an appropriate word for the vineyards where this wine is grown. 

Nick and I were the first outsiders to visit the extraordinary terrain responsible for this flagship wine back in 2014 – see China’s new wine frontier. (We went at our own expense, I hasten to say in view of current discussions about wine writers’ ethics on Twitter inspired by my amazed...